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#1 (permalink) |
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Mazda Guru
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Derby CT
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I have now installed: Dynaudio Esotec 362 8" 3-way component powered by a Audison VRX 4.300 EX CS passive 2- Alumapro RX SQ 12" powered by Audison LRX 1.1K in custom FG\MDF boxes Lots of sound deadener SEE PAGE 2 for more pics ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() OLD info: Im starting my own topic to track my install of a system and a car PC. Partly because Im going to have some questions along the way and partly to provide a usefull go to topic foar all. I will continue to post pics here of my car and whats in it and whats going in it. At this point all I'm doing is figuring out what to buy...So here is the first list: Rainbow CS 265 Profi 6.5" Components DLS A4 component speaker amp Alumapro Alchemy RX Subwoofer The SQ version I think the dual 4Ω but Im not sure what would be best with this: DLS A6 subwoofer amp I've got a box that fits on the side of the trunk that I will be using. It is about 1cu.ft. sealed. I am using stock HU and am thinking even though these amps are great I will need some sort of adjustability. I haven't decided yet, but if I do go this route I will get the Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty. My battery is on the way out but I will probably just get an AutoZone battery. I am sound deadening the car likely with 2 rolls BXT RAAMmat, 6 yards ensolite foam applied with 3 cans adhesive found here. On the front doors I plan to mount speakers similar to this to prevent vibrations. I have already sound deadened one door to an extent and it makes a huge difference. I think some foam in a can will be used on the door panes as well to isolate and stiffen up the storage compartment so things don't vibrate in there...we'll see. I have the HOLY GRAIL installed but need to build a Car PC and integrate it into my stereo. Im not sure how to do this yet either, but have been researching it. My first question is how I get my navigation sound to overlay onto my stereo while I am listening to music on the HU like a CD. Currently I am using an IBM T42 laptop with iGuidance and the i-Blue Edition 2 Bluetooth GPS. I got it for $123+12 shipping with this Deal. So basically cost $35 for a Bluetooth GPS. The IBM is my home computer so I am working on getting a Dell Inspiron 2500 to do the job. It is a POS and only has 256mb Ram but it will work for nav. I would eventually like to have a real car PC but need to know how to configure what I have before its really worth it... I will also be installing a Globalstat MR 350 GPS receiver in the rear deck. It is a bulkhead (through-hole) mount for a clean permanent look. Bought it here. Anyways the carputer part will be an ongoing process. I also want to install laser jammers soon too, but I need to start working more OT for if thats ever going to happen. Ive done systems before, but nothing like this so it is a bet unfamiliar ground. Ive got a bunch of wires, so im not sure what more I will need. I will likley doing the BIG 3 Upgrade. Thats about it. I have not purchsed any of the audio equipment yet but Ive pretty much maid up my mind. I will edit this top post to add usefull links. Please PM me any links you find to be usefull so I can post them here. Wish me luck. Running New Speaker Wire To Doors - Need Advice Please, looking for guides or tips on running aftermarket speaker wire to door Jared's Mazdaspeed 6 Stereo Install Log <-good one Rear door removal and sound deaden <- if your dooing rear door speakers mp3car website <- I will likley be over here a lot Cool custom double din and IB Sub <- eventually Iwould like to do subs in custom enclosers in rear deck My first and still one of my favorite install threads Lots o' subs in da trunk Art of Noise new Haven CT <-These guys said they were going to start making custom enclosures but they never got back to me....maybe if enough people on here bug him he will get it done. AAMAF here is his e-mail: robbyho@artofnoiseaudio.com Mazda6 carputer how to build a fiberglass box How to make your stero better than the car its in Recommended Cable Size by Power and Distance Sub resistance and box volume calculators wiring option calculator <a href="http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27" target="_blank"> Simple, cheap, and effective door treatments </a>
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RENT FENDER ROLLER</span> CPE Standback - CPE catted DP to dual muffler CS mounts - CPE FMIC w/ OEM air dam & HKS BOV - mrlilguy CDFP - D N <span style="color:#4b0082">P - CPE CAI - speedie6 TIP - SU MM - TWM SS - TT Front MM - TT & CPE Rear Diffmounts - BC Coilovers - Brembo Front/StopTech & EBC Redstuff rear - F2 Baffle <strike>BS</strike> - <strike>VTCS & EGR</strike> - - 8.5x18et45 GM 57F's w/ 245/40 M3s / 18x8.5et45 Advan RZ GM w/ 245/40 Re01Rs - Passport 8500 X50 + LI Quad Laser Jammer - X50 mute button, Sub volume, LI swith & Dashawk custom mounted in steering column - EURO Tails - Rola Roof Rack - Prosport Boost gauge-Vent mount - TSX projector Retrofit - 55w projectors in fog retrofit - Carputer - CRX antenna w/ sat antenna mounted in front - Audison Dynaudio & Alumapro - Amsoil/Schafer Supreme |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Mazda Guru
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Wow, nice project, glad you are documenting it.
Well, since I have done a similar audio system to what you are doing, here are my thoughts: The 3Sixty is an amazing pc. Tons of control and a kick ass interface via my Treo. I just love playing with it…lol. It was truly the missing pc when I did the initial install, and the system sounds light years better with it there. Now the bad news: The stock head unit is basically a complete POS. I don’t know exactly how you would wire it to the pc? Would it be a source at all, or just function as a preamp for the aux in on the 3sixty? I originally had my Ipod running via that input on the 3Sixty, completely bypassing the stock HU all together, and it sounded amazing. However…no volume or function controls on the head unit, only the 3sixty. No steering wheel controls either. So I added the Ipod through the aux mod in to the stock HU. It doesn’t sound anywhere near as good, but at least I can control the volume with the HU. I must admit I know very little about car pc’s - Would the car pc control all the components like nav, music library, radio, Bluetooth phone, Ipod, sat radio? Would it switch video? I would think the idea that makes the most sense, and of course costs the most, would be to replace the hu from the start. An Alpine or Pioneer HU would be able to play and switch video, including dual zones, have all the electronic gadgetry of the 3Sixty (minus the Treo) and have the ability to add Ipod, Bluetooth, hd radio and sat radio all relatively easily. The end results would be well worth the investment, considering the ease of integration to the Car pc and the sonic quality. The integration to the dash is another story all together. I have given this a lot of thought recently, as I would like the option to replace the stock HU at some point. Corksport is working on importing a double din kit for the speed6. Actually I think they are bringing in jdm and retrofitting it for the US. There is the Metra kit, but the fit and finish is poor and doesn’t blend very well. If I were going to do this I would probably buy a Metra kit, gut it, and use the electronics for a custom double din fitment to the current dash. Expensive, but it would look flawless (hopefully). Good luck, and keep us posted! |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Track Racer
Join Date: May 2007
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im gona be doing a similar setup too... just different brand amp and speakers... although I dont really know how that sound proccesor works (3sixty). i was looking at it but... Is it vital to have one if your not running an aftermarket hu.. and whats tyhe difference between the 3sixty.1 and 3sixty.2?
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (yomama69 @ Jan 31 2008, 07:48 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Quote:
2001 mercedes benz e430 |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Mazda Guru
Join Date: Nov 2006
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Well I knew the HU was a POS but now I am thinking I need to rethink my plan. It would be a waist to make a system with "high end" (for me) amps and speakers if they will sound no better than a lower end due to the signal being crap from the HU. I figured it was basically a clean flat signal but you seem to be saying that is not. Now if I say the HU has to go my choices are either upgrade it or ditch it completely and go Headunitless.
With the first choice I would not want to get something that had a screen as I already have one. So I need to look double dins that do what I need. Basically provide 2 channels of clear signal. There are the obvious issues that you mentioned above. I still wonder if you could hack the stock HU to get the boards and such out that you need...Not sure if anyone has actually attempted this but I know it has been talked about. So most likely see if corksport gets the DD out. Or use the ugly buttons from the metra kit and go custom with the stock panel. I don’t mind doing the last except for the ugly buttons. What I would like is DD that has capabilities like the 3sixty in itself. I would like it to be able to hook to my steering wheel controls and again I still need to figure out how to have my nav voice come on over music (NO IDEA HOW TO DO THIS yet). With the second choice I am basically saying no more HU and build a carputer that does everything. This may be my best bet but will take a lot of research. But it may cost less in the long run and allow me to do all that I want, especially it should make it easy to have the nav over voice.... It would also keep a stock look until you noticed that I never touched my stock HU and did everything trough the touchscreen in the map compartment. A main issue with this is being sure a high end sound card would do what I need it to do and that the computer boots up fast and doesn't crash. Would also need to have easy access to a CD drive, I assume in glove box. With a Car2PC adapter it would retain my steering wheel controls, but I am not familiar with these adapters or much of what going this route would require. Obviously I would have to build a PC and not use my POS dell. On the 3Sixty as far as I know it is the ability to adjust it on the .2 thru a palm device. Otherwise it is probably a pc or something...not sure im right though.
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RENT FENDER ROLLER</span> CPE Standback - CPE catted DP to dual muffler CS mounts - CPE FMIC w/ OEM air dam & HKS BOV - mrlilguy CDFP - D N <span style="color:#4b0082">P - CPE CAI - speedie6 TIP - SU MM - TWM SS - TT Front MM - TT & CPE Rear Diffmounts - BC Coilovers - Brembo Front/StopTech & EBC Redstuff rear - F2 Baffle <strike>BS</strike> - <strike>VTCS & EGR</strike> - - 8.5x18et45 GM 57F's w/ 245/40 M3s / 18x8.5et45 Advan RZ GM w/ 245/40 Re01Rs - Passport 8500 X50 + LI Quad Laser Jammer - X50 mute button, Sub volume, LI swith & Dashawk custom mounted in steering column - EURO Tails - Rola Roof Rack - Prosport Boost gauge-Vent mount - TSX projector Retrofit - 55w projectors in fog retrofit - Carputer - CRX antenna w/ sat antenna mounted in front - Audison Dynaudio & Alumapro - Amsoil/Schafer Supreme |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Rally Racer
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Quote:
Or, you can even skip that and just get the front end working in your car. It will do tons for your understanding of the subject. As for how this is displayed.....it all goes through your front end. RR seemed to assume that many people would be using similiar programs, like Winamp and Iguidance. So these things integrate into RR perfectly. You switch songs with the buttons in RR, but alls it is doing is really switching songs in Winamp. But you never see that happening so it looks seemless, and feels totally integrated into one package. I can drive down the street with my GPS showing, listening to music, and actually on the Music screen, and when my turn comes up, my music will lower, RR will switch the the Nav screen, and the directions will be called out. It's seemless and many that have seen it think it's factory. You can integrate other programs in as well, but RR has been set up specifically for a few like iGuidance and Winamp. For sound, you just use the Car2PC adapter. And it has a pluggin, ran by the USB you will connect to your laptop. So you can still change songs with the steering wheel controls. It's a bit daunting at first to set up, but you'll get used to it. Just set it up in house, and it will be even easier if you're using a notebook, as you can yank it in and out of the car in a snap. So my advice to you would be to go download RR and Winamp right now. it won't cost you a thing and you can get used to how everything works. You can even download it onto your home PC and play with it if you want.
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2006 Speed 6, Black Mica ENGINE --- GT3071R/7psiWGA,CPE EMS, CPE FMIC and CAI ,ATP 3-inch DP,SU motor mount, TWM shifter, 12"sub with custom CarPC. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Rally Racer
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#7 (permalink) |
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Rally Racer
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RE: Art of Noise.
I'm currently working with Rob on the Mazda 6 enclosures. Mine is almost finished, and once we have pictures we'll probably be putting together a group buy.
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Performance: CP-E Engine Mount - Autovation Racing Pedals - Single 2.5" exhaust - Magnaflow Mufler/Resonator - Graphite Konig Troubles with Toyo Proxes 4 (Summer) RX-8 16s with Hankook Z212 (race) stock 16s (winter) - Mazdaspeed Short Throw Shifter - Mazdaspeed6 shocks and springs - Racing Beat Rear Swaybar and endlinks - CPE MAFCi Exterior: ATH lip Kit - Badgeless Grill - Stock lower fog lights - Euro tail lights tinted red - Side marker tinted overlays Audio: Alpine CDA9887/Ipod, molded metra dashkit - Rockford Fosgate Power T3002: Dayton RSS315HO-4 (changes sometimes)- Rockford Fosgate Power T4004: Dayton RS180-4 in doors and Dayton RS-28A in kickpanels, actively crossed - Kicker Hyperflex 1/0 wiring. In The Basement: Tinted headlight bezels - DIY LED Halos - rear bumper lip </span>[/i] Currently the engine is out due to Pre-Cat failure on the front bank. Rebuilding with 2004 Sable shortblock, Ebay headers, Fidanza flywheel, stock clutch, AWR engine mounts, Aeroforce Interceptor, Glowshift Oil Pressure. <span style="color:#FF0000">Rebuilt frankensablemazda motor is in, AND IT RUNS |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Rally Racer
Join Date: Jul 2006
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If someone comes out with another screen for this car, I will buy it. I hate mine!!!!
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2006 Speed 6, Black Mica ENGINE --- GT3071R/7psiWGA,CPE EMS, CPE FMIC and CAI ,ATP 3-inch DP,SU motor mount, TWM shifter, 12"sub with custom CarPC. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Mazda Guru
Join Date: Nov 2006
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OK well I have figured out how to fit a 3 way componet set in here so I am now going with the DYNAUDIO Esotec System 362 .
Specs: 8" woofer with a 3" mid and 1" tweet. 200w rms 1000 peek. MORE SPECS I am going to run passive for now so I still have to decide on an amp for this and the alumapro sub which is a 500w rms 1000 peek. Any suggestions? I was looking at the audison LRX 6.9 as that would be run as a: 3 Ch with 240W x 2 (4 Ω) + 470W x 1(2 Ω) to do it all for now. This amp would basically do the same thing as an audison 4.5 and 2.4 but would cost less. I would wire the sub DVC in parallel so that it woudl be a 2 Ω load. Other options I have consided are an Audison LRX 4.5 and 2.4 or still the DLS A4 and A6 I mentioned above. Once I went to an active setup I would have to get another amp like a LRX 2.9 to run the Dyn woofers, but the 6.9 would work for the tweets/mids sub maybe. What do you all think? Stop giving benner all the love. At least I will listen to what you have to say! Also I was thinking of getting cascade sound deadener, but it seems to be about the most expesive so I was thinkin of going to go with RaaMmaat and maybe som B-quite LComp and VComp. Will this work? as it will be a fraction of the cost I was looking at for the cascase. It is just that cascade was recomended and they are obviously good as they do sounddeadining for aviation as well.
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RENT FENDER ROLLER</span> CPE Standback - CPE catted DP to dual muffler CS mounts - CPE FMIC w/ OEM air dam & HKS BOV - mrlilguy CDFP - D N <span style="color:#4b0082">P - CPE CAI - speedie6 TIP - SU MM - TWM SS - TT Front MM - TT & CPE Rear Diffmounts - BC Coilovers - Brembo Front/StopTech & EBC Redstuff rear - F2 Baffle <strike>BS</strike> - <strike>VTCS & EGR</strike> - - 8.5x18et45 GM 57F's w/ 245/40 M3s / 18x8.5et45 Advan RZ GM w/ 245/40 Re01Rs - Passport 8500 X50 + LI Quad Laser Jammer - X50 mute button, Sub volume, LI swith & Dashawk custom mounted in steering column - EURO Tails - Rola Roof Rack - Prosport Boost gauge-Vent mount - TSX projector Retrofit - 55w projectors in fog retrofit - Carputer - CRX antenna w/ sat antenna mounted in front - Audison Dynaudio & Alumapro - Amsoil/Schafer Supreme |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Rally Racer
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VERY nice equipment. How are you planning on fitting those 8's in the doors? That's going to take a little bit of fabbing...and a LOT of sound deadening. Where you putting the mids? the tweets? I'm interested to see how this progresses
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Performance: CP-E Engine Mount - Autovation Racing Pedals - Single 2.5" exhaust - Magnaflow Mufler/Resonator - Graphite Konig Troubles with Toyo Proxes 4 (Summer) RX-8 16s with Hankook Z212 (race) stock 16s (winter) - Mazdaspeed Short Throw Shifter - Mazdaspeed6 shocks and springs - Racing Beat Rear Swaybar and endlinks - CPE MAFCi Exterior: ATH lip Kit - Badgeless Grill - Stock lower fog lights - Euro tail lights tinted red - Side marker tinted overlays Audio: Alpine CDA9887/Ipod, molded metra dashkit - Rockford Fosgate Power T3002: Dayton RSS315HO-4 (changes sometimes)- Rockford Fosgate Power T4004: Dayton RS180-4 in doors and Dayton RS-28A in kickpanels, actively crossed - Kicker Hyperflex 1/0 wiring. In The Basement: Tinted headlight bezels - DIY LED Halos - rear bumper lip </span>[/i] Currently the engine is out due to Pre-Cat failure on the front bank. Rebuilding with 2004 Sable shortblock, Ebay headers, Fidanza flywheel, stock clutch, AWR engine mounts, Aeroforce Interceptor, Glowshift Oil Pressure. <span style="color:#FF0000">Rebuilt frankensablemazda motor is in, AND IT RUNS |
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