Removing powered bose sub (hatch) and replacing with Infinity - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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Old 02-08-2007, 11:54 AM   #1 (permalink)
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So I've been looking into replacing the Bose subwoofer that sits in the wheel of my Mazda6s hatchback. This sub is powered (unlike the standard saloon) and the connector has 5 wires.

Anyway, I started looking into the wiring, hoping to glean some information on how things are connected. I found a couple of interesting things.

1) Even though there are 5 wires going into the sub connector, only 4 made their way to the sub unit itself. The Black/Orange wire is pulled from the loom and just taped to the side. It's not connected to anything - also verified with a continuity check.

2) The Sub enclosure itself is easy to open and it reveals a small speaker (something like 5 inches) plus the sub amp. The chips used in the amp are obviously custom-made for Bose and you can't get much information from the board itself other than...

3) ...The PCB is labelled with the functions of the cables, but this is obscured with the connector.

Has anyone else worked out the function of the 5/4 wires going into the powered sub? If so, I'd rather use that information than re-invent the wheel. Otherwise I'll desolder the connector from the board and find out, and post here (obviously).

I'm planning to replace the existing sub with an Infinity Basslink unit (powered). This will require a new power connection from the battery since it's electrically more demanding than the Bose unit.

Thanks,
Paul
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Old 02-08-2007, 12:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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paul, welcome to the club. read through this post and all the thread linked there in. you must run your own power flow directly to the battery. if you search, you'll find about two dozen threads on adding a sub to the bose system.
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Old 02-08-2007, 12:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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agreed i did it by connecting my amp to these wires. it looks like MK706's link isnt working for me, but i'm sure if you use the search button for about 5 minutes you'll find your answer. The one i can remeber off the top of my head was the BLUE wire. This wire can be used to run directly to the remote turn on switch for the amp. Good luck with the install, and WELCOME TO THE CLUB!!
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Old 02-08-2007, 01:14 PM   #4 (permalink)
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link fixed. sorry.
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Old 02-08-2007, 04:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Question for everyone,
What about keeping the Bose sub as a mid-bass and adding a separate amp and sub. I have some Rockford HE2 12" subs in a custom box from my old car and a RF 1000 watt amp that I'm thinking of putting in the back of my 6. How easy/hard do you think it would be to wire this? Should I connect the RF sub to a RCA line converter at the deck or at the Bose sub unit?
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Old 02-08-2007, 07:33 PM   #6 (permalink)
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i left the bose sub connected. sounds fine.

don't use a line level output converter (LOC), it will introduce noise problems and you'll buy a component that isn't needed.

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Old 02-09-2007, 05:30 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Ok, so from what I see from those threads, the wiring is like this:

thick black: chassis ground
thick blue/red strip: 12V ACC amp turn on (this is actually the power for the existing BOSE amp, but it's not enough for higher power amps so we just use it as a signal to turn on the new sub)

thin black/red strip: signal (positive lead)
thin brown: signal reference ground

And then I'll need to pull a wire from the front to the back to actually power the sub. I'll probably not use the existing ground in the loom and just ground directly to the body at some point near the sub.

Seems easy enough. I'll verify my '06 5-door wire colours this evening.

Question: How long does it take to properly run a wire from the front to the back? I remember taking something like 3 hours with my old Ford Contour, taking into account determining a route through the firewall/bulkhead and removing/replacing all the door sills.

Many thanks.
Paul
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Old 02-09-2007, 10:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
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that's about the size of it. you'll want to run a powerflow kit directly to the battery. 8 gauge should be good for your application. be sure the use the inline fuse holder that comes with the power flow kit to fuse the battery wire within a foot of the battery. there are several threads on running power, etc. for ground, be sure the connect directly the chassis ground by affixing it to an existing bolt, or adding your own screw. there are varying opinions on this covered in several threads.

if you have other specific questions post them; there's no shortage of club6ers willing to offer advice/opinions. good luck.
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Old 02-19-2007, 09:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Anyone tried plopping in a W6v2 10" right there in the OEM sub spot? I'd imagine just put the sub there, and mount an amp to the wall.
But I'm just guessing, considering I just bought my car today.... the banks are closed , so i get it tomorrow
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Anyone tried plopping in a W6v2 10" right there in the OEM sub spot? I'd imagine just put the sub there, and mount an amp to the wall.
But I'm just guessing, considering I just bought my car today.... the banks are closed , so i get it tomorrow [/b]
I dont feel like explaining all the things that are bad about your idea. But rest assured you will never get a sub like that to work in the rear deck. I tried with a much smaller sub (jl 8w3) and im not really pleased with the result, and considering the work i put into it for what Igot out of it i would never attempt it again unless i was going to totaly change the rear deck. IE. cut large holes, custom cover, dynamat (lots)
If you want a 10w6 you would be much better off building a box (or buying one) and just putting it in the trunk.


http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_enclosu...amp;prod_id=305

This is a link to a prefab loaded box from jl.
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