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ATR tuning...

3K views 10 replies 5 participants last post by  Deadman 
#1 ·
Can anyone tell me how to raise my idle RPM on the ATR?...
NVM I think I figured it out... now how do I make my LTFT more stable especially right now that my LTFT's are 20%?....
 
#2 ·
are they 20% at idle or driving?


i can help u with idle but not driving yet
 
#4 ·
corey we all know that thing is scary as hell to look at esp for the new tuning folks so i dont blame him for asking for some real world human help.
 
#5 ·
Seriously though, the first few steps say exactly how to adjust and calibrate the MAF. You can do it in one shot when the LTFT's are settled (like yours are dj), and you just make the necessary changes to each maf g/s segment in the table.
QUOTE
By analyzing the datalog recorded above, you can see what changes the ECU is making to compensate for the various hardware installed on the
vehicle. You should only need to apply these adjustments once prior to continuing the tuning process. One objective is to calibrate the MAF sensor for part
throttle conditions. The other objective is to calibrate the MAF sensor so the WOT fuel tables can be accurate. From what we have seen with these vehicles,
the MAZDASPEED3 (MS3) and MAZDASPEED6 (MS6) have different learning breakpoints for the LTFT corrections.
The MS3 uses five different LTFT Breakpoints from;
0 – ~5 grams/sec
~5.01 – ~16 grams/sec
~16.01 – ~28 grams/sec
~28.01 – ~77 grams/sec
~77.01 grams/sec – full sensor range
The MS6 uses five different LTFT Breakpoints from;
0 – ~5 grams/sec
~5.01 – ~18 grams/sec
~18.01 – ~31 grams/sec
~31.01 – ~69 grams/sec
~69.01 grams/sec – full sensor range
If you are operating the engine with an intake system which has a larger diameter that the stock intake system then you will want to use the global
multiplier value calculated from the “Intake Calibrations” tab located in the “AccessTUNER Calibration & Tuning Guide Worksheet for MAZDASPEEDs.”
This multiplier should be applied to the entire MAF Calibration curve.[/b]
page 2.
 
#7 ·
I suggest if people are new to tuning, and need to make adjustments:

*edited for more emphasis*
First- MAKE SURE YOUR CAR IS IN PROPER WORKING CONDITION!!! Check for any vacuum / boost leak. Use the pressure test or any test you want, but you need to be certain you have no leaks, otherwise your just tuning for disaster. Make sure battery voltage is up to par. Make sure radiator has fluid, and it'd prob be a good idea to put in fresh oil while your at it.

Second- Just follow the tuning guide, it pretty much walks you through it step by step. First thing it does is have you calibrate the maf sensor, cause if it's not properly calibrated, all the other table values are essentially meaningless.
 
#8 ·
My LTFT at idle is 20%. Anthony any help is much appreciated. Corey, im in the process of reading that whole thing to really understand and learn how to do this, but I hope you guys dont get mad if I keep asking questions. BTW Corey, I still got a CEL today eventhough I removed them from the ATR menu. It wouldnt tell me what the code was though, I figured cause I removed it from the MAP it wouldnt tell me what it was. Im in the process of replacing that barb fitting on my TIP that broke off and putting in a better barb fitting hopefully that fixes the p2187 code that im getting...
 
#9 ·
QUOTE (djmarkian @ Apr 24 2009, 01:33 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1551978
My LTFT at idle is 20%. Anthony any help is much appreciated. Corey, im in the process of reading that whole thing to really understand and learn how to do this, but I hope you guys dont get mad if I keep asking questions. BTW Corey, I still got a CEL today eventhough I removed them from the ATR menu. It wouldnt tell me what the code was though, I figured cause I removed it from the MAP it wouldnt tell me what it was. Im in the process of replacing that barb fitting on my TIP that broke off and putting in a better barb fitting hopefully that fixes the p2187 code that im getting...[/b]

http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=112354
 
#10 ·
Thanks Anthony unfortunately im still getting the p2187 code and I already replaced the barb fitting... So now I have to bring it back to the shop and let them do pressure test on all the piping they did for me...



EDIT: DJ when you had a leak on your FMIC setup did your speed throw a CEL?, before me and FEZ go any further I need to know if it is a leak on the piping and the intercooler. The car is running like a champ but that 20% LTFT and CEL is bugging the crap out of me... I also replaced the barb fitting and check all the piping aft MAF. I may also replace the re-circulating tube with a cheap one cause when I put on my SU tube thats when the CEL came up also. But I checked that tube and it looks fine to me as well...
 
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