Mazda 6 Forums banner

Cost of Mazda6 repair parts

25K views 11 replies 6 participants last post by  MonoxideChild 
#1 ·
While hunting for a used Mazda 6 wagon, I heard a couple of time from my entourage to beware because repair parts could be really expensive at Mazda dealership. I know it's a cliché.. But can you guys comment on this ?
 
#2 ·
QUOTE (cyberderf @ Jan 20 2010, 12:58 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1630976
While hunting for a used Mazda 6 wagon, I heard a couple of time from my entourage to beware because repair parts could be really expensive at Mazda dealership. I know it's a cliché.. But can you guys comment on this ?[/b]
Any brand parts tend to be pretty damn expensive at any dealership. Most cars dealerships have decided the best way to make money is to gouge the crap out of every customer that comes in the door.

With any non-domestic brand, you have the added challenge that a lot of parts are not available at independent auto parts stores. This means you are often stuck sourcing items from dealerships. One of the ways to help this is to shop for your parts online. Many car dealers offer parts online for less than full retail. Here are a few for Mazda parts:
http://www.mazdaparts.org/
http://www.mazdastuff.com/
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...m?siteid=214264
http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/home.php
 
#4 ·
Well, I don't know about the US, but the same cliche runs in the automotive community here in Saudi. "Oh, don't buy a Mazda! Parts are too expensive.

But having owned five Mazdas (four 6's and a Miata) over the past five years, even though there's a single Mazda dealer for the entire kingdom, parts are pretty darn cheap - sometimes even cheaper to buy from the dealer than to buy them from the independents. The oil filter for my 6's and my Miata costs the equivalent of about six US dollars, which is a little more than half what I'd pay for it at a typical gas station run by Yemenis.

Here's another story for perspective. I once crashed my first 6 into a concrete median. Ended up with a scraped wheel (which was aftermarket anyway), a bent steering knuckle and an impact-pitted wheel bearing. The dealer replaced the entire steering knuckle, which comes out of the box with the bearing already pressed in, while I supplied a replacement wheel. Final tally, including labor: the equivalent of about 190 US dollars. It horrifies me to even think of what that might have cost me with, say, an Accord.

Other anecdotes? Two replacement windshields - including labor, at the dealer - cost me less than $250 each, and even less than that at an independent installer. The Miata's broken windshield cost me even less. Brake pads... about $50, including labor. Two front brake disks cost less than $200.
 
#6 ·
QUOTE (xxxmonoxidechild @ Jan 21 2010, 03:27 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1631344
owned my 6 since 05. and abuse the living hell out of it. and ive yet to have a single failure of any kind after 5 years. ive bought parts, but they have been all aftermarket just to upgrade it. as long as your basic upkeep is good, you shouldnt have any issues.[/b]
Gotta love the honesty there,lol. Abuse the hell out of it. I have learned thru this forum recently that its ok to really push the rpms in my engine thru all gears and they are right, its still very smooth pushin over my old rev limit of just over 4k. I should credit Castrol for that also. :dmetal:


B
 
#7 ·
what has a redline of 4k? diesel? lol.

i store the 6 for winters, but even my beater 89 probe i drive in the winter with 280K miles i abuse. this car actually hits its rev limiter a few times a week. but this thing does involve alot of fixing on a weekly basis to keep alive. lol
 
#8 ·
QUOTE (xxxmonoxidechild @ Feb 17 2010, 08:29 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1637566
what has a redline of 4k? diesel? lol.

i store the 6 for winters, but even my beater 89 probe i drive in the winter with 280K miles i abuse. this car actually hits its rev limiter a few times a week. but this thing does involve alot of fixing on a weekly basis to keep alive. lol[/b]

No No I just never really pushed it over 4k until recently. The transmission/engine would make that "ok shift me now" noise around 3-4k. Now Im pushing it towards 6-7 before shifting. Realizing that the RPM meter goes to 8k, half that would be 4k so I kept it around there to be nice. But since I read the posts on how it is safe to bring it to higher rpm's, I'm accelerating alot better. Zoom Zoom


B
 
#10 ·
wow really? If I had a speed6 knowing what it is, I would have abused it from day one,lol.


B
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top