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2.5l oil filter

32K views 26 replies 16 participants last post by  Roger L 
#1 ·
Do the new 2.5l engines have canister oil filters or spin-on?
I'm curious if Mazda went back to spin-on, since there were so many issues with the 2.3 canisters being cracked by crap mechanics, etc.
 
#2 ·
QUOTE (kikboxr1 @ Feb 7 2009, 08:55 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1516617
Do the new 2.5l engines have canister oil filters or spin-on?
I'm curious if Mazda went back to spin-on, since there were so many issues with the 2.3 canisters being cracked by crap mechanics, etc.[/b]


I'm getting the oil changed Fri.I'll let you know...............
 
#4 ·
I've no experience with Mazda's canister filter on my 2.5L 4 cyl. , and haven't yet crawled under to examine it. Before I change the filter, does anyone have thoughts about what to look for / be careful of etc.??

Thanks
 
#5 ·
eh. the 3.7 V6 has a easy to get to spin off. I changed the oil w/o jacking the car or lifting it in anyway
 
#6 ·
QUOTE (Scorpion @ Apr 8 2009, 12:07 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1544332
I've no experience with Mazda's canister filter on my 2.5L 4 cyl. , and haven't yet crawled under to examine it. Before I change the filter, does anyone have thoughts about what to look for / be careful of etc.??

Thanks[/b]
The drain plug takes a 13mm wrench/socket. The filter is the spin off and not a can. The wrench can be found here - http://www.mazdaparts.org/mazda-oil-filter-wrench.html. I used the strap type wrench, which was awkward, but did work. There is a 'plug' at the base of the spin off that can be opened with an allen/hex wrench. When you get the black spin off 'cap' completely off, be prepared for a splash of oil to come with it. According to the manual, the 2.5 takes 5.3 quarts of oil when the filter is also changed. I put in 5 quarts and that is right at the top of the upper line on the dipstick and that was after running the engine to circulate the oil.
 
#8 ·
QUOTE (Nolig 6 09 @ Apr 16 2009, 01:35 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1548544
What is the difference between a cartridge filter and a spin off?

Thanks[/b]

Spin on filter is what you're probably used to seeing: It (the entire filtering apparatus) literally spins on and off and is 1 complete piece....remove and replace the entire unit. Cartridge is a little different: you remove the outer casing (which is reused indefinitely) and instead replace the inner filter cartridge with each oil change.

Problem with doing the cartridge yourself is you need a special tool to do it...where a spin on usually just needs a strap wrench or something similar
 
#9 ·
I'm confused - I admit that's not always hard to do... But, when I look in several places / catalogs all I find is a reference to a replacement cartridge, Not the entire spin-off assembly like everything else I've owned since the late 50s.

I just went out and put it on the ramps, then rolled underneath w/ the creeper. If I'm looking in the right place, that Ain't no "spin off"! When looking up through the large hole in the splash shield, I see a black composit "cap" that has a white metal plug in the center. This is on a metal housing. Both the plug and "cap" have torque specs. on them.

So... Am I looking in the right place?

If I am looking in the right place, anyone out there w/ experience w/ this type filter on this engine?

Thanks
 
#10 ·
QUOTE (Scorpion @ Apr 16 2009, 07:14 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1548690
I'm confused - I admit that's not always hard to do... But, when I look in several places / catalogs all I find is a reference to a replacement cartridge, Not the entire spin-off assembly like everything else I've owned since the late 50s.

I just went out and put it on the ramps, then rolled underneath w/ the creeper. If I'm looking in the right place, that Ain't no "spin off"! When looking up through the large hole in the splash shield, I see a black composit "cap" that has a white metal plug in the center. This is on a metal housing. Both the plug and "cap" have torque specs. on them.

So... Am I looking in the right place?

If I am looking in the right place, anyone out there w/ experience w/ this type filter on this engine?

Thanks[/b]
Yes, that is the housing for the cartridge type filter. The 'white metal plug in the center' is a drain plug. That allows you to drain some of the oil out of the filter area so you don't have so much spill out when you remove the 'black composite cap'. The black composite cap can be removed with this part - http://www.mazdaparts.org/mazda-oil-filter-wrench.html. The filter is a paper type cartridge cylinder. There is a 'post' inside the black composite cap that the cartridge filter fits over. I got the filter at NAPA - NAPA Gold 7203. It is the same filter that is used in the 2.3L engine in the Mazda3. This is also my first experience with the cartridge filter and once you get the black cap off, you'll see that it is pretty simple stuff. I'll try to take some pics next time I do an oil change.
 
#11 ·
Where do we buy the filters for the cartridge type?
The wrench for the cartridge cap is mazda only or shops would sell that too?

Thanks

According to the shop manual there are 2.5s with spin and some with cartridge and it seems like it would take the replacement of one bracket to switch from one to the other.
 
#12 ·
I found a wrench to fit the cap on the bottom of the cartridge type filter housing @ Kragen for $6. It has 14 flats, and is 74mm flat to flat. Mine is a "FLOTOOL" #7. My local Mazda dealer wanted $26.

As far as that "6.5 mm" hex to fit the housing drain plug, that had me going for a bit. Then, just like in the comics, a light bulb went off over my head! 6.5 mm translates to 1/4 inch! Which makes the 13 mm pan drain equal to 1/2 inch.
 
#13 ·
QUOTE (Nolig 6 09 @ Apr 21 2009, 10:44 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1550532
Where do we buy the filters for the cartridge type?
The wrench for the cartridge cap is mazda only or shops would sell that too?

Thanks

According to the shop manual there are 2.5s with spin and some with cartridge and it seems like it would take the replacement of one bracket to switch from one to the other.[/b]
Nolig - The NAPA Gold 7203 is a cartridge type filter. That cross-references to a WIX 57203.

Scorpion - Thanks for the info on the filter cap wrench.
 
#14 ·
QUOTE (tbowley @ Apr 21 2009, 07:38 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1550889
Nolig - The NAPA Gold 7203 is a cartridge type filter. That cross-references to a WIX 57203.

Scorpion - Thanks for the info on the filter cap wrench.[/b]
Advanced auto parts finally updated their computers and I was able to pick up a perfolator cartridge the other night
 
#15 ·
Now that I've actually changed the oil, I can say that the "6.5mm" plug in the bottom of the cartridge cap, on mine, is actually 6mm. There's no way a 1/4" will fit.

All in all, if I had to chose between buying a car w/ this oil filter cartridge assembly, or an identical car w/ a "spin-off" - I'd go for the spin off...

I figured out the answer to the "5.3 qts" of oil for a change.

My Miata says it takes "4.7 qts".

Just buy one of each and it all comes out even!

Now That's clever marketing!
 
#16 ·
QUOTE (Scorpion @ Apr 16 2009, 07:14 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1548690
I'm confused - I admit that's not always hard to do... But, when I look in several places / catalogs all I find is a reference to a replacement cartridge, Not the entire spin-off assembly like everything else I've owned since the late 50s.

I just went out and put it on the ramps, then rolled underneath w/ the creeper. If I'm looking in the right place, that Ain't no "spin off"! When looking up through the large hole in the splash shield, I see a black composit "cap" that has a white metal plug in the center. This is on a metal housing. Both the plug and "cap" have torque specs. on them.

So... Am I looking in the right place?

If I am looking in the right place, anyone out there w/ experience w/ this type filter on this engine?

Thanks[/b]
This is the correct part for the 2.5L 2009 4 cylinder w/cartridge filter: http://www.mazdaparts.org/genuine-mazda-oilfilter.html. In April of this year, Mazda changed to a spin-on type filter which is what most people are used to. If you see a black composite looking cap with a chrome hex screw in the center, then you have the cartridge system. It's not that hard to change the cartridge filter. You need a METRIC hex wrench (can't remember the size), and a cap wrench (which comes free with the 5 filters above). The hardest part is getting to the drain plug on oil pan at the BACK of the engine. This probably works best with ramps, unless you have long arms and patience (like I do) and a fairly flat oil pan that holds about 5+ quarts. Drain the oil from the pan first and then come back to the filter. Unscrew the drain plug in the center using the hex wrench. You will see a small gasket around this. The best way to remove these is with a small screwdriver pulling up and over the top -- NOT down and over the threads. Then using the cap wrench (hold firmly against the cap), gently loosen the cap (it comes off pretty easily). Again, you will see a gasket around the cap. Using a small screwdriver, pry beneath and pull over the top. Replace both gaskets by stretching over the top (not over threads) and apply a small amount of oil to the gaskets for lubrication. Put the new cartridge over the plastic center cage. It's spring loaded so when it's pushed down, it may not seem like it's on, but it is. Now here's where you need to be careful. When you replace the cap (with new lubed gasket), tighten firmly but don't over tighten because you could crack the cap. Replace the oil cap drain plug (with new lubed gasket). Replace the oil pan drain plug. Fill with 5.3 quarts of 5W-20. Replace filler cap. Start engine. Check for leaks (but don't stick your hands up there while the engine is running -- I know that sounds stupid but some people don't think about running fans and belts). If you have no leaks, then you are done.
 
#17 ·
Has anyone researched the conversion to a spin on filter? I know there is a conversion for the older 2.3L engines, and from what I can tell, should work fine for the 2.5L engine. Does anyone know where to purchase one of these conversion adapters?

Amsoil is the best.
 
#19 ·
I did my '09 oil change with the cartridge filter for the first time today, and it was pretty easy. Took an hour, but I know it will be half that next time. I used the tool from Mazdaparts.org, and used my torque wrench to replace. I forget what the torque is, but it's marked on the cap.

Because it was my first time, I made sure to take my time. I first removed the oil plug, and drained everything that came out. I then removed the cartridge... After the cartridge was removed, I went back to the oil plug, and there was more oil.

Is there a right order to do this? Certainly I could try the filter first next time, but I don't want an incredible mess with the cartridge filter out and then the plug out.
 
#20 ·
I was told that if you bought the 2009 Mazda 6 before April 09 it is using the cartridge type. They switched to spin-on right around april which pisses me off because i bought my 6 in November 08!

Without knowing this at first i went to Kragen and bought a K&N air filter and looked at all the K&N products that are compatible with my 09 6. And i found a spin-on filter so i bought it. So i get home and i jack my car up and go underneath and then i realize "F***, its a damn cartridge!"

You can buy from your dealership these 2 parts to convert your (not-so-user friendly) cartridge system to a (new-hotness) spin-on system. The L302-14-311 which is the Spin-on mount, and the LF01-14-342 which is the gasket. i got both for about $40

Hope that helps some people out!
 
#21 ·
I can't say I liked the idea of a cartridge filter, but it was not that bad to deal with. It's right in front; easy to get to. It's not that messy after you drain the center plug. In fact, once the oil is out, there almost no mess. I own a $30 Craftman beam-type torque wrench. Took a minute to get it back on once I had the new filter and gaskets on the thing. Yeah, you have to own the right tool for the cartridge; I own a garage full of tools that collect dust 360 days a year.

The dumb cartridge filters cost more too! I chalk that expense up to NOT taking it to the dealer. I'd bet many mechanics (short of the dealer) do not do cartridge filters regularly, and NONE are going to use a torque wrench on it. Why let them learn?

Change it over? Given the time and expense it would take to change it over to screw-on, plus the concern of my warranty, I'm not planning on it. That's just me; I didn't think it was that bad at all.
 
#23 ·
I'll take the cartridge system over a spin-on any day. Anyone who knows anything about o-rings sealing against oil pressure knows that the cartridge system is superior. I'm not lazy enough to whine about 1 extra step in changing my oil filter, and I work with high pressure hydraulics for a living. I hate spin-ons. I have them in 2 other cars, and they are way more prone to failure.
 
#26 ·
Hannibal84: I would suggest sticking with Mazda's recommended oil weight. While your sig shows you live in S Cal, the 10W will still be a bit thicker on start up. I would stay with the 5W-20 in dino or synth form.

Also FWIW . . . I send my oil to Blackstone labs for analysis every 5,000 miles. I use regular 5W-20 dino. The analysis comes back very good, with plenty of active ingredients and protection in the oil at 5,000 mile intervals with dino. And Blackstone recommended that I go 7,000 - 8,000 miles on my next change interval. I'm going to stick with the 5,000 intervals because i want to keep the oil and tire rotations in sync. Unles the car is a turbo or auto-crossed, newer dino oils are find for most people.

As for the cartridge, I believe Mazda switched to the spin on filter for 6s built after January of 2010 or around that time. My 2009 6 iGT is a cartridge. If you know your build date, that should help determine. Short of getting under the car, why don't you look at the receipt for your last oil change? It should say "filter" or cartridge".
 
#27 ·
The 2010 2.5L uses the spin on filter and finally did away with the cartridge filter. When looking up the correct filter at a parts store, both the cartridge and the spin on come up for the 2010. This makes me think that the change may have started after the start of 2010 production. My 2010 6i was built in Oct 09 and it has the spin on filter already.
 
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