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Old 05-29-2013, 01:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Cooling system diagram?

I just had something go bad in the cooling system, anti-freeze all over the place and smoke (the anti-freeze burning on hot parts under the hood) but I can't find where it is coming from.

Aside from the normal oil change/tune up work I don't do too much work on cars so I'm not sure where everything is. I assume it is a hose that broke or came loose but it is not obvious. I can tell it is coming from the right of center area (standing in front of the car looking back at it) not too far from the radiator.

How would one track this down to find out the problem? I can fill the coolant up and drive it a few miles no problem.

Thanks in advance.

Gavin

Last edited by Gavintech; 05-29-2013 at 01:43 PM.
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Old 05-29-2013, 01:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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There are a lot of plastic components in the system that eventually go bad. Both lines to the throttle body are subject to break. I replaced a water pump housing before because the plastic inlet sheared clean off. Couldn't even tell it was broken unless you moved the hose around and saw it separate.

Let it dry and then slowly begin refilling the reservoir with distilled water until you see it start to leak from somewhere. Post a picture if you can.
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Old 05-29-2013, 01:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Ahhh. Let it dry first. I did let it dry a bit but not completely. Plus my garage is not all that well lit. I'll let it dry completely and then do that out on the street so I can see.

Great idea, thanks!
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Old 05-29-2013, 01:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm at about 105,000 miles so I'm probably due for a water pump and timing belt (or do we have a chain?) replacement anyways. But I'm just trying to keep her in good condition until the 2015's come out and we have all the options to choose from (Diesel, i-eLoop, etc) without spending too much $$$.
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Old 05-29-2013, 01:51 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The water pump is mounted on the back of the engine's left bank. It's an easy repair if you have the special puller tool. I still think one of the plastic lines broke, because that's the issue 90% of the time with these cars.
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Old 05-29-2013, 03:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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DIY Plastic coolant "T" delete
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Old 05-29-2013, 04:53 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by arkadius 73 View Post
Nice, I'll check that out. I did the TB coolant bypass already a few years ago because the OEM piece broke on its own. I checked that to see if the leak was coming from there and couldn't see anything.
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Old 05-30-2013, 01:01 PM   #8 (permalink)
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So I let it try and ran the car for 5 minutes and NOTHING HAPPENED.

I decided to drive it about a half mile and it started leaking again. I can't find it at all though. By then it was wet everywhere again. Just can tell it is on the right side, somewhere between the center/middle of the radiator and the airbox.

Is there a way to get it to start leaking while its idling so I can see where it is coming from while it is dry?
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Old 05-30-2013, 01:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by speedeast View Post
The water pump is mounted on the back of the engine's left bank. It's an easy repair if you have the special puller tool. I still think one of the plastic lines broke, because that's the issue 90% of the time with these cars.

When you say "left bank" do you mean my right if I am looking at the engine bay from the front of the car? If so that area (the back of the engine) seems to be completely dry. However the leak is on that side of the car.
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Old 05-30-2013, 05:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gavintech View Post
So I let it try and ran the car for 5 minutes and NOTHING HAPPENED.

I decided to drive it about a half mile and it started leaking again. I can't find it at all though. By then it was wet everywhere again. Just can tell it is on the right side, somewhere between the center/middle of the radiator and the airbox.

Is there a way to get it to start leaking while its idling so I can see where it is coming from while it is dry?
It sounds like you were close to leaking, before the drive. But try to add a little load while stopped.

Note that the volume of air in the expansion tank slows down the build-up of pressure in the system as the engine warms up.


First, clean again using the green can of CRC "brake clean". This stuff is safe on plastics and drys quickly. It may help to remove the air box for better access ( search for cold air box installation threads ). Use a long flat head screwdriver, with a rag wrapped over the tip with tension.

To add a little heat load while parked:

1) start engine, put on lights

2) let it idle until the fan(s) comes on (ac off)

3) while the car is running, brake hard, put it in 2dn (atx or man), and rev engine a bit ... like getting ready to jump off the line. do this a few times, while a friend watches for leaks with a bright flaslight if needed.


From my manual, the thermostat housing in that leak area has about 7-9 hose clamps for all the hoses that attach in that small area ... lots of leak potential.

.
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Last edited by KevinK2; 05-30-2013 at 05:54 PM.
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