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Old 01-29-2013, 01:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Angry In need of some serious help...

I have a 04' Mazda 6s and it keeps bogging out every time I make a stop. It also accelerates poorly. I brought it to a mechanic and I was told the timing chain was off and that he fixed it. Well, it still is bogging at every stop sometimes even stalls. I have to rev it up high to keep it from stalling. My tachometer also stays at 0 and jumps every so often.

Criticisms would be nice...
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default In need of some serious help...

How did he fix the timing chain?

Id start by changing all spark plugs (remember to gap them before install) if they have never been done along with some new ignition coils.

Clean your MAF & TB. Change your air filter.

Is your check engine light on?
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks! and no it isnt, the mechanic told me that the ''timing sensor'' comes on and off. But it hasnt come on yet. I changed all the plugs already, but I dont want to aimlessly change coil packs because that can get expensive seeing how there is six of them. it feels like the car is only running on 3 cylinders.
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If you want a good set of coils contact this guy at this email: samplewon@aol.com

His name is Sam. He should sell you a set for under $100 (all 6) We both swap 2004-05 3L motors into Contours/Cougars. We don't use the COP units on the Cougar/Contour platform and we can't get rid of them otherwise. I sold off all my extra sets to users on here. See info here on Mazda owners using them: Can someone point me to a place to buy the 4V Cobra Coils

I just built up a 2004 Mazda 6s. Swapping the coils made a huge difference on that car. Idle is dead on and it has way more power now.

With that said bad coils usually only give you hesitations, rough idle, and power loss. The gauge issue and stalling is going to be from something else. If the crank sensor has wiring issues (bare wires grounding out) you can see issues like this. That is the sensor that gives you the RPM signal. I'd check that sensor and the wiring that lead to it. Jack the car up and pull the passenger side wheel/guard off to find the crank sensor on the left-lower side of the timing cover.
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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How many miles on the car? Oil changes done?

Smoke has a good list to trouble shoot with. I had a simular problem in the past and it ended up being a O2 senor that was going but the CEL was pending so there was not a check engine light. As Smoke said, clean MAF and throttle body. if you have over 90 K on the spark plugs change them (check gap on new ones). I would also install a new timing sensor, these are cheap and easy to get to (total of 2 of them and they are differnt from eachother). The timing sensor sound like it might be a pending CEL. I would also have a good OBD reader connected and check for pending lean reading in bank 1 or bank 2 (typically bank 1). This would be a O2 sensor that is about ready to go out.
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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How many miles on the car? Oil changes done?

Smoke has a good list to trouble shoot with. I had a simular problem in the past and it ended up being a O2 senor that was going but the CEL was pending so there was not a check engine light. As Smoke said, clean MAF and throttle body. if you have over 90 K on the spark plugs change them (check gap on new ones). I would also install a new timing sensor, these are cheap and easy to get to (total of 2 of them and they are differnt from eachother). The timing sensor sound like it might be a pending CEL. I would also have a good OBD reader connected and check for pending lean reading in bank 1 or bank 2 (typically bank 1). This would be a O2 sensor that is about ready to go out.
thanks for the advice. I had a buddy check it out and he said its most likely the crank position sensor, it also figures out the tachometer not working correctly. Im going to replace it tomorrow and see how it goes from there. thanks for all your help!
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Old 01-30-2013, 11:01 AM   #7 (permalink)
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RPM signal comes from the crank sensor. Just replace the crank sensor and hopefully the tach will work fine after that.
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Old 01-30-2013, 03:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The crank trigger working properly is vital to the engine. If it has issues there will be an error for the condition. It sets injection timing, fuel duration, spark, timing, VVT advance etc. If you don't have an error for the crank trigger something else is going on. If its not working your engine won't run!

Please get some clear details to help us pinpoint this problem.
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:58 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The crank trigger working properly is vital to the engine. If it has issues there will be an error for the condition. It sets injection timing, fuel duration, spark, timing, VVT advance etc. If you don't have an error for the crank trigger something else is going on. If its not working your engine won't run!

Please get some clear details to help us pinpoint this problem.
Okay well, it starts up fine but the idle is sort of rough, a little jerky and bogging. The tachometer doesnt work only when i rev the engine high rpms it'll jump. I ordered the part today but of course I got sent the wrong one so ill have to wait till tomorrow morning to put in. the car sometimes stalls on its own when I come to a stop light or stop sign. on the highway it runs pretty decent but accelerates kind of shitty. Thanks for everyones help
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:32 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rimazdadoug View Post
Okay well, it starts up fine but the idle is sort of rough, a little jerky and bogging. The tachometer doesnt work only when i rev the engine high rpms it'll jump. I ordered the part today but of course I got sent the wrong one so ill have to wait till tomorrow morning to put in. the car sometimes stalls on its own when I come to a stop light or stop sign. on the highway it runs pretty decent but accelerates kind of shitty. Thanks for everyones help

No MIL/CEL codes?
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