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Old 11-16-2012, 04:09 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by flipper66 View Post
Thanks Flipper. I am going to get it from the dealer now because:

A. I'm not sure they are right, i think they are guessing and $700 (after diag) is a hell of an expensive guess.

B. Well, really just A lol

Would a clogged injector really seem feasible as a cause for this stuff? I could see it causing the rough idle, but the dieing while driving just seems unlikely to be caused by one clogged injector.
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Old 11-16-2012, 06:12 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Drive through any big puddles lately?


This sounds like moisture in the main fuse/relay block to me. This might be just as simple as pulling everything out of the main fuse block, after you take pictures, cleaning and brushing contacts and such, and putting it back in.
There's instructions below, linked from another thread on this forum. I had the same sh*t you have.

See here

First, take the three coils you replaced and put them in the front three cylinders if you haven't already. Could just be that the bad one is still in there. Probably in cylinder 4.

One thing I've learned in the past 11 months is that when something goes wrong with this car, it goes horribly wrong.
That which caused it is the DUMBEST FUCKIN' THING...

Don't tackle dumb with smart. Start simple first.

Last edited by mrpd150; 11-16-2012 at 06:30 PM.
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Old 11-16-2012, 06:52 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Dealer called: says #4 fuel injector is clogged or blocked. I'll be honest, that doesn't sound like its likely to fix the issue but I can't exactly tell them they're wrong when i gave up and trusted them to fix it.

They even said, "that's where we need to start" which at $564 isn't encouraging to hear.
You ever swap those coils into the front bank? Maybe cyl #4??

For what its worth: I've seen debris PLUG an injector which had us DOA at the time. Remove injector, Apply 12V (Equates to 100% duty cycle, injector is open), apply 50PSI to the injector "NOZZLE SIDE" (Remove screen/filter first if it has one). Repeat a couple times covering with white cotton cloth so you see what comes out. In this case, a rusty fuel tank had plugged the injector. This quick blast removed most of the material and it actually ran great even at WOT!

I offer this; not a long term repair but if you pull them I hate to see you waste more money on something its NOT. So you could test the pattern but I would NOT use gasoline to do it. An air compressor, hose and battery are needed for some basic tests. It will tell you allot even without fluids being sprayed.
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:17 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Took it to a local shop. 40 lbs compression on cylinder 4. They said it COULD be an injectors or could need a motor. Fuck My Life
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:31 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Took it to a local shop. 40 lbs compression on cylinder 4. They said it COULD be an injectors or could need a motor. Fuck My Life
40Lbs of compression is a dead engine. injectors failing may cause that, but the engine is toast.
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Old 11-19-2012, 04:09 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I agree with flipper...
I purchased my 6 and found out I had the same condition. That is why I suggested the compression test. If you are handy with tools the swap is not that bad. Mostly time consuming the first time.

I bought an 06 ford fusion engine with 56000 on it for 374.00 us dollars, that being said if you have the time and ability then it's not that bad of a project.

Just make sure you either check the pre-cats or gut them to keep this from happening again and get a new pcv valve.

Good luck and I hope you don't sell because of this.
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Old 11-19-2012, 04:33 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by crash3d View Post
I agree with flipper...
I purchased my 6 and found out I had the same condition. That is why I suggested the compression test. If you are handy with tools the swap is not that bad. Mostly time consuming the first time.

I bought an 06 ford fusion engine with 56000 on it for 374.00 us dollars, that being said if you have the time and ability then it's not that bad of a project.

Just make sure you either check the pre-cats or gut them to keep this from happening again and get a new pcv valve.

Good luck and I hope you don't sell because of this.
Did you source your motor locally or buy from a large reseller?

The thing is, I am great with a wrench. Have my degree in auto collision/refinishing (I was a painter) but I know how to do about anything.

My weak spot is diagnosis (no shit right?) If I know the problem, I can fix it. Figuring out the problem is a bigger issue for me.

Is there really any point in even trying a new injector at this point?
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Old 11-20-2012, 02:27 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Lol no point at all in the new injector as you will be using your injectors, intake, valve covers, timing chain covers, and oil pan if you go the cheaper route and get the ford fusion (same exact engine minus the parts mentioned) you can either clean your injectors or use any of them from your donor engine i left the fusion water pump on also as the mazda unit had a belt tensioner and i saw no point in changing what worked.

I got my engine locally from that AAA auto salvage place for 374 and no core. Otherwise a mazda 6 would have been 2600. Apparently the salvage yards are wise to the engine killers designed into the 3.0 v6 beast
- pcv failure - i just change mine every other oil change for piece of mind
- coil pack failure causing failing porcelain pre cat disintegration offering a free sand blasting from the egr recycling it back into the intake track causing like 40lbs of compression by eating the rings

I gutted my pre cats and blew the remaining exhaust from the rear of the car with a leaf blower to clear debris. When you do this you will need a pair of oxygen sensor simulators (i electrically made mine) to correct the check engine light.

I also upgraded my coil packs to the 4.6 liter cobra mustang units for 15 bucks a piece as they are 60000 volts compared to our stockers at 20000.

You may even get lucky and find a member local to you and have the swap go faster with the extra hands and knowledge. Good luck bud.
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Old 11-20-2012, 02:34 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Additionally having and using the torque specs listed in the factory service manual is key to your swap success. If you look through my first posts on this board I think flipper66 hooked me up. Over torquing coil hold downs or intake manifold bolts causes stripping and possible warping if not a no complete seal situation on the intake manifold.
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:28 PM   #30 (permalink)
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MAZDA 6 FULL WORKSHOP MANUAL!!!!!!
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