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Old 11-10-2012, 09:54 PM   #31 (permalink)
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What u mean by die? Like rings? Hope its just that.
Hope I can just rebuild it and not have to look for another engine.
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Old 11-12-2012, 11:23 AM   #32 (permalink)
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time to start reading up what is in my sig. it will be very useful to you.
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Old 11-12-2012, 04:52 PM   #33 (permalink)
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I know it'll be cheaper and more fun just to rebuild it. Out here on Guam they'll polly ask 6-7 hundred for a motor if I could even find one.
Theirs not too many M6s around here.

Is there a dealer on this website that I can grab parts from?
I think all I'll need is a full gasket set and rings. No use changing out bearings if they're still good.

Thanks!!!
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:16 PM   #34 (permalink)
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hit up sheldon@mazmart.com

tell him the loud mouth the yellow 6 sent you
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Old 11-13-2012, 04:38 PM   #35 (permalink)
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haha Thanks!!!
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Old 11-13-2012, 05:15 PM   #36 (permalink)
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how did did you go from a hand held rubber seal getting 155 - 160 PSI on every cylinder to a thread in gauge and get 125 - 130??? Did you have all the plugs out and crank the same number of rev's/period of time?

This seems backwards. . .

So you're saying there are now blue clouds of smoke after punching out the pre-cats?

If you were to break this down into smaller parts; Won't start when hot for example. Either it's not getting idle air, not getting fuel, or is not getting spark. What exactly happens when it won't start? You walk away for 30 minutes or does it start if you try a few times? Do you see BLACK clouds out the back when it fires off? Opening the TB and small shot of ether may help you understand this better. If it starts, its not getting enough fuel during warm start. If it doesn't change it, its not fuel related so you pull the front three plugs and should find them WET with fuel because the plugs never fired.

because your original post is 0300 this would support that error code. Does it still show 0300?
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Old 11-14-2012, 05:27 AM   #37 (permalink)
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As for da 155 with the rubber I actually had a friend do it while I wasn't there.
Don't know why but he actually did a wet test first. Don't know why he did it backwards.

I think I figured out why it wasnt idling right and kept dyin out after ot gets hot.
I gapped the plugs to 52 and it seems to drive a bit better after warm.

Haven't had the chance to drive far enough for the light to go back on.

After drivin a bit I pulled the 3 plugs and they aint wet but the color of the plugs seem to be consistant.
The ones gettin low compression are blackish and the one with decent compression are light brownish.

Will mess with it a bit more and come back.


Thanks???
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:20 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Just an update. Looks like the motor is comin out and gonna rebuild her.
Started on it last night and man is it tight in there. Only thing left to remove is the passenger side half shaft, power steering pump and mounts then she's ready to come out.

Parts on the way and I hope to have them by the weekend.

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Old 12-16-2012, 09:05 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Car is back up and running. Idles good with good power but now I just have codes P0012, P0022 and P1410 on.

Any advise will be appreciated.
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Old 12-16-2012, 09:28 PM   #40 (permalink)
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DTC No. Condition MIL DC Monitor item Memory function Page
P0011 CMP timing over-advanced (RH) ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0011 [AJ] .)
P0012 CMP timing over-retarded (RH) ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0012 [AJ] .)
P0021 CMP timing over-advanced (LH) ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0021 [AJ] .)
P0022 CMP timing over-retarded (LH) ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0022 [AJ] .)
P1410 VAD control system circuit malfunction OFF 2 Other (See DTC P1410 [AJ] .)

Google kindly provided this. . .
http://www.fordwrm.co.za/manuals/Maz...j56_wrm260.pdf << for L3/2.3 but worth looking at.

Which OCVs did you install in in this engine? A little history on the replacement/rebuild might be helpful also!

Sounds like either the OCVs in the valve cover are not working or maybe you have a sensor mismatch. Need more info before trying to guess.
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