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Old 01-12-2012, 08:48 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Check Engine Light Flashing HELP!

My 2004 Mazda 6s with 140,000 miles has had the check engine light go on and off for about 8 months now. It was always the same code, a cylinder misfire. However, it was never the same cylinder. It would read almost all cylinders individually misfiring or every cylinder is misfiring. The spark plugs are about a year old now and are the standard OEM ones straight from Mazda. I thought it was the coils so I replaced all six of them. To my surprise when I changed the coils out 5 of the 6 had hair line cracks. So I assumed it was just the coils, but now I still have the same problem. I can randomly be going down the highway and the light will go on, start flashing, and before I can pull off to the side of the road it will become solid again and finally go away. On top of this my car has had trouble starting. You can hear the starter trying to turn the car over. So I'll give it a few minutes after I've initially tried to start the car and it will start right up with the check engine light on and eventually the light will go away on it's own. Can both of these problems be related to the same part malfunction? I also have a slight oil leak that drips on my catalytic converter.

Over the past year I've replaced my

Battery
Throttle Body (TPS Sensor)
Coils
Spark Plugs

Any input would be appreciated!
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Old 01-12-2012, 09:09 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Sounds like you need to check your vac lines and see if one of them isn't dry rot and leaking slightly.

When the "missfire" light goes on, do you feel it miss?

Have you changed the plenum gaskets?

does temp or humidity adversely effect it?
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Old 01-12-2012, 09:46 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I recently have replaced two vacuum lines as well so I will look closely for that.

Yes, but only while idling or low speeds. It will drop down to 700 rpms and then spike up to 1100 rpms on its own. However, I don't notice it on the highway.

When I changed the throttle body about a year ago I changed the plenum gaskets. I have removed the intake manifold twice (for the back ignition coils) without replacing them. They seemed to be fine so I didn't mess with it.

I'd say yes because it hasn't been this severe until now. The weather finally feels like winter in Missouri. It's currently 18 degrees outside with snow and ice on the ground.
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:18 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Sounds like tell tail signs that you have a another bad line or two.
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Old 01-12-2012, 12:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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It could be vac lines dry rotting and causing a lose of vacuum, but I don't know how much of a leak would actually cause a code to trip. On the back side of the intake manifold I had the middle vac line literally pop off while I was driving. I flipped out when it happened and drove it (the best I could) to the nearest Auto Zone. I figured out what the problem was, put the hose back on and scanned my car. Only my normal o2 sensor codes were showing.
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Old 01-12-2012, 01:11 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Not trying to sound funny, but did you check your TB accordion for hairline cracks? I had the same issues as you on NYE/NY... checked my plugs, coils, lines, everything. Then after examining my accordion, I found two very slight hairline cracks. Taped everything up... reset my ecu, no codes now for 355 mi.
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Old 01-12-2012, 02:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Front 1ine View Post
It could be vac lines dry rotting and causing a lose of vacuum, but I don't know how much of a leak would actually cause a code to trip. On the back side of the intake manifold I had the middle vac line literally pop off while I was driving. I flipped out when it happened and drove it (the best I could) to the nearest Auto Zone. I figured out what the problem was, put the hose back on and scanned my car. Only my normal o2 sensor codes were showing.
if it is the one to the FPR it will def throw fuel trims off as the fuel pressure regulator is having trouble figuring out how much air is/isn't being induced.

I usually end up with P300 codes when I have a vac issue, but have had it happen on single cylinders
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Old 01-13-2012, 03:53 PM   #8 (permalink)
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After getting the codes read at Autozone one was for the Crank Position Sensor which was replaced and the other the number 2 cyclinder misfire. The engine now starts without problems now that the crank position sensor was replaced. However, the engine still continues to idle rough when the engine is cold, but smooths out as the engine warms up (still has a miss upon heavy acceleration). Any ideas?
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