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Old 09-23-2011, 06:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Low Engine Temp

So, I am getting the following CEL's: P0126 and P0128. I've checked the fluid temp and that is fine and the fan has been running. I pulled an engine diagnostic stat after the car had been running for a little bit and the engine temp is around 130 F. I am thinking the thermostat has gone bad and needs replaced but I wanted to get other opinions before I swap it out.

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Old 09-26-2011, 11:13 AM   #2 (permalink)
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either it is your T-stat, seal, or the CTS not reading properly.

replace T-stat and seal and see how it goes.
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Old 10-04-2011, 09:28 AM   #3 (permalink)
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So I replaced the t-stat this past weekend and it seemed to run fine on Sunday. Well the wife came home yesterday and said the CEL came back on. I pulled the code and it was P0128, Coolant Thermostat. I'm thinking maybe this time it is the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. Do anyone know where that is or could send me a pic from the service manual?

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Old 10-04-2011, 12:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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it is under the TB on a black plastic tube.



The green and red 2 wire clip in the picture is the CTS.
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Old 10-04-2011, 01:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks flipper. Is it possible to get to that without taking the 2 coolant tubes off? I am guessing not based on how tight it is in there. Is there anything else that would cause that CEL?
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Old 10-04-2011, 09:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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What did you use for a thermostat? If it doesn't have the secondary spring and shut-off valve, it won't work right. Doesn't allow coolant to mix or flow properly.

Same goes with O'Reilly's thermostat that has the secondary spring and shut-off valve; it doesn't work correctly either. It's too high of a temp- 192. Factory is 188.

I went rounds with both situations 4 weeks ago. I then put in the correct Motorcraft thermostat (RockAuto.com part RT1175) and everything has been fine since.

One interesting thing I discovered when I had the incorrect thermostat with no secondary spring and valve- the coolant DOES NOT completely/properly flow through the block. It was plain of day because of the different in color of the coolant.
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Old 10-05-2011, 07:49 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeeMeZoomZoom View Post
Thanks flipper. Is it possible to get to that without taking the 2 coolant tubes off? I am guessing not based on how tight it is in there. Is there anything else that would cause that CEL?
I don't think there is enough space. either way the coolant needs to be drained as the sensor is inside the coolant track and will release any remaining fluid behind it
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Old 10-05-2011, 11:07 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karlt10 View Post
What did you use for a thermostat? If it doesn't have the secondary spring and shut-off valve, it won't work right. Doesn't allow coolant to mix or flow properly.

Same goes with O'Reilly's thermostat that has the secondary spring and shut-off valve; it doesn't work correctly either. It's too high of a temp- 192. Factory is 188.

I went rounds with both situations 4 weeks ago. I then put in the correct Motorcraft thermostat (RockAuto.com part RT1175) and everything has been fine since.

One interesting thing I discovered when I had the incorrect thermostat with no secondary spring and valve- the coolant DOES NOT completely/properly flow through the block. It was plain of day because of the different in color of the coolant.
I used the thermostat from O'Reilly's; Murray brand. The temperature is only getting to about 140 degrees with the new thermostat in there, so there is still something else going on. That's why I am thinking it is the CTS. Which I did notice that on Rockauto, there are two of them listed, and one in the wrong part. The CTS doesn't screw into the block like the cheaper one shows, it just slides into the hole.
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Old 10-05-2011, 11:11 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flipper66 View Post
I don't think there is enough space. either way the coolant needs to be drained as the sensor is inside the coolant track and will release any remaining fluid behind it
There is enough space to get to it with the coolant hoses still attached. Last night I had to change out the air intake tube (that I broke while changing out the t-stat ) and I was looking where the CTS comes out. And yes coolant does spill out, all over the place, when you take the sensor out without draining it first. Looks like it is time to change out the coolant as well.
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Old 10-06-2011, 07:49 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeeMeZoomZoom View Post
I used the thermostat from O'Reilly's; Murray brand. The temperature is only getting to about 140 degrees with the new thermostat in there, so there is still something else going on. That's why I am thinking it is the CTS. Which I did notice that on Rockauto, there are two of them listed, and one in the wrong part. The CTS doesn't screw into the block like the cheaper one shows, it just slides into the hole.
It could be you have an air bubble. If you don't have the factory manual, the coolant 'burb' procedures are a bit bizarre...

Fill the system - install the cap
Get the engine up to temp - wait until the fans come on
Rev the engine at 2500 RPM for 3 minutes
Then rev the engine at 3000 RPM for 1 minute
Let idle for 1 minute
Rev at 3000 RPM for 1 minute
Let idle for 1 minute

Repeat "several times"

Let cool and if level has dropped, fill-up reservoir and repeat process.

Your cap could be bad and leaking pressure.
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