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Old 06-15-2011, 08:31 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tkemme View Post
Have you tested both the sensor and the solenoid valve? They are mounted right next to each other on the firewall.

EGR BOOST SENSOR SOLENOID VALVE INSPECTION[L3, AJ]

Airflow Inspection

NOTE:
  • Perform the following procedure only when directed.
1.Disconnect the negative battery cable
2.Remove the EGR boost sensor solenoid valve
3.Inspect airflow between each port under the following conditions.
  • If not as specified, replace the EGR boost sensor solenoid valve.
  • If as specified, perform the "Circuit Open/Short inspection".
Forgive my ignorance, but I have no idea how to perform these test or what this picture is showing me.
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Old 06-15-2011, 10:35 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Please relook at my previous post, I fixed the pictures. In the first picture you see the vacuum line running from the EGR valve up to the EGR boost solenoid valve and then over to the EGR boost sensor (item 10 in the image). The second picture is the test procedure and picture of the solenoid valve. The solenoid valve opens at idle which exposes the sensor to what ever pressure or vacuum is in the EGR valve housing. When the solenoid is closed, the sensor is ported to atmosphere through the tiny air filter built into the end of the solenoid. To test the solenoid valve, disconnect the electrical plug to it and the hoses going to ports A and B. Connect a test hose to port B and blow into it. Air should come out the tiny air filter and NOT port A. Now if you have the ability, connect power and ground to the solenoid as shown in the diagram. You should feel it "click" open and now when you blow in the hose connected to port B, the air should come out port A and NOT the tiny air filter.
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Old 06-15-2011, 11:07 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tkemme View Post
Please relook at my previous post, I fixed the pictures. In the first picture you see the vacuum line running from the EGR valve up to the EGR boost solenoid valve and then over to the EGR boost sensor (item 10 in the image). The second picture is the test procedure and picture of the solenoid valve. The solenoid valve opens at idle which exposes the sensor to what ever pressure or vacuum is in the EGR valve housing. When the solenoid is closed, the sensor is ported to atmosphere through the tiny air filter built into the end of the solenoid. To test the solenoid valve, disconnect the electrical plug to it and the hoses going to ports A and B. Connect a test hose to port B and blow into it. Air should come out the tiny air filter and NOT port A. Now if you have the ability, connect power and ground to the solenoid as shown in the diagram. You should feel it "click" open and now when you blow in the hose connected to port B, the air should come out port A and NOT the tiny air filter.
Now that makes more sense. I was able to perform the air test and it worked as you described. I am not able, however, to perform the power test. I guess I'll have to get my mechanic to do that. I also noticed that after doing the air box mod there is a vacuum line deleted from the green sensor that went to the "flapper". Don't know if that has anything to do with this or not but thought I would mention it.
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Old 06-16-2011, 09:14 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Now that makes more sense. I was able to perform the air test and it worked as you described. I am not able, however, to perform the power test. I guess I'll have to get my mechanic to do that. I also noticed that after doing the air box mod there is a vacuum line deleted from the green sensor that went to the "flapper". Don't know if that has anything to do with this or not but thought I would mention it.
That "flapper"line has nothing to do with the EGR line, but it does need to be capped/plugged off so you don't hav a vac leak.

Have your mechanic test the solenoid and also the sensor output.
Do you still have the "EGR line rerouted"? What is it hooked to? Please describe.
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Old 06-16-2011, 08:30 PM   #35 (permalink)
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That "flapper"line has nothing to do with the EGR line, but it does need to be capped/plugged off so you don't hav a vac leak.

Have your mechanic test the solenoid and also the sensor output.
Do you still have the "EGR line rerouted"? What is it hooked to? Please describe.
The "flapper" line is capped. The EGR itself is routed into the air box. Is that what you are asking?
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Old 06-16-2011, 10:26 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Yes. Into the box, not the hose, correct? Did this problem start on its own or right after you did something?
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Old 06-16-2011, 10:42 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Yes. Into the box, not the hose, correct? Did this problem start on its own or right after you did something?
Yes, into the box. The P2227 code showed up after I did the re-route but I don't remember it being immediate. I replaced the EGR valve itself first but the code came back. I completely removed the boost sensor and the solenoid and shot compressed air through it. Today the car seemed to run better but I didn't reset the ECU so the CEL is still on. Have not had a chance to test the solenoid yet.
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Old 06-16-2011, 11:18 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Be careful with that compressed air! The sensor is an actual barometer, not just a pressure switch. Like I said earlier, it is normally ported to atmosphere through the boost solenoid air filter and tells your computer what elevation your car is at to help adjust fuel/air ratio. They use the sensor to do double duty and check the closing of the EGR valve. When the computer determines your engine is at idle, it does a quick test to make sure the EGR valve closed, but it makes a couple of assumptions....1st is that the engine is at idle and therefore should have around 20 inches of vacuum in the manifold, 2nd is that the EGR valve really closed, 3rd is that all the hoses are good and 4th is that the boost solenoid switched. If all those assumptions are actually correct the sensor will see the vacuum in the manifold and determine that the EGR valve closed. If it doesn't detect the vacuum, it trips P2227 and says something is wrong. Possible faults are: 1-bad sensor, 2-boost solenoid failed to switch, 3-clogged or broken hoses, 4-EGR failed to actually close and is porting exhaust PRESSURE to the sensor instead of vacuum, 5-a large air leak between the EGR valve and the manifold. Your mechanic should have this info and be able to diagnose it in about 15 minutes using a manifold pressure/vacuum gauge T'd into the hose between the EGR valve and the boost solenoid, a live data scanner or a volt ohm meter. This should not be this hard to figure out.
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Old 06-20-2011, 08:44 PM   #39 (permalink)
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I tried an experiment today. First a recap...when coming to a stop and going to idle, it starts smooth for several seconds then drops a few hundred rpms and idles rough from then on. Drivability is fine, the only symptom is at idle. Back to the experiment...I unplugged the connectors to both the EGR boost sensor and solenoid valve. It made no difference at all (side note: when I unplugged the sensor the "TPS OFF" light and the image of the sliding car were illuminated on the instrument panel. I thought that was odd). So can I infer that both the sensor and solenoid are bad?
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Old 06-20-2011, 10:14 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by familyman333 View Post
I tried an experiment today. First a recap...when coming to a stop and going to idle, it starts smooth for several seconds then drops a few hundred rpms and idles rough from then on. Drivability is fine, the only symptom is at idle. Back to the experiment...I unplugged the connectors to both the EGR boost sensor and solenoid valve. It made no difference at all (side note: when I unplugged the sensor the "TPS OFF" light and the image of the sliding car were illuminated on the instrument panel. I thought that was odd). So can I infer that both the sensor and solenoid are bad?
Sadly no. I unplugged my barometric sensor and got the same results (sliding car/TCS OFF lights) also immediately lit check engine light and set code P2229 Barometric Sensor Input High. Have you had your mechanic check anything else?
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