2004 Mazda 6 V6 Idle Problem After Changing Rear Ignition Coils - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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Old 07-22-2010, 08:27 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 2004 Mazda 6 V6 Idle Problem After Changing Rear Ignition Coils

Hey there, I have a 2004 Mazda 6 v6 and a couple weeks ago I had a misfire code for my rear middle cylinder. I took off the intake manifold etc etc and replaced the coils and spark plugs and after I put everything back together the car was running excellent, smooth, powerful and idle was perfect. After driving the car about 200 miles I was sitting at a stop light and I noticed the idle was at about 1200RPM when I had the car in neutral without the clutch depressed. As soon as I depressed the clutch the idle went right back to a normal 700-800RPM. I drove a little longer and after a couple more lights the car threw a P0507 code, idle not what expected or whatever, which makes sense. What doesn't make sense is why I am getting this code now, and why only when in neutral but with the clutch in it is fine. I was very careful putting back on all the vacuum lines which had to come off, I also tightened the EGR valve in snug so I don't think that would leak. Anyone have any ideas? From what I read it could be MAF, EGR, PCV, etc etc. Oh, I also put a brand new PCV valve on the car so that couldn't be the issue. I don't know what to start checking first!
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Old 07-22-2010, 09:20 AM   #2 (permalink)
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are all the vaccum lines connected and not cracked? did you tighten the intake manifold in the right sequence?
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Old 07-29-2010, 07:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I definitely tighted the IM down in the right sequence as per the instructions I found on this site. As for vacuum lines, they are definitely all connected, I didn't check extremely close for cracks but they didn't look like they were in bad shape. I cleared the code and it has only come back once in a week and I haven't even seen the car idling high since that initial time when I posted this. Whatever it is, seems to be barely an issuem so maybe it's a very small leak. Just annoying if the code keeps coming back.
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Old 07-29-2010, 07:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
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i had my clutch done last year and Mazda forgot to reconnect a switch on my mtx, i was getting the same symptoms. i didnt want to post this at first because its nowhere near the intake manifold. what codes are you still getting?
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Old 08-04-2010, 09:22 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Hmm interesting you say that because just today I went to start my car and it would not start. I have had issues with this in the past where I had to push the clutch down harder or even let it off and push it right down again then it would start, it won't start at all now, not even if I reach down with my hand and push the switch in all the way with my finger and try to start it. This wouldn't happen to be the switch would it? The code I was getting was a P0507 but I haven't seen it in a week now. Do you think these things are related or separate. Also if you have any ideas on the clutch switch or why my car won't start, that would be great. Thanks for the help BTW!
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Old 08-05-2010, 06:59 AM   #6 (permalink)
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i looked up that code and you may have a vacuum leak somewhere or forgot to connect a vacuum line. why it wont start, i dont know.

check all your connections on the trans and vac lines. hopefully you didn't overtighten and break something.
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Old 08-23-2010, 12:49 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I had a problem like that one time the car didnt start. I had to go to the fuse box on the floor in the driver side and change the fuse which I think is 25 (ignition). If u replace that n ur car starts that means u still have an ignition coil problem.

Or like the previous guy said rough idling can be cause by cracks or one of your vacuum hose is suckin air some much that the hose is compressing the hose.

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Old 08-06-2011, 07:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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could someone tell me what the ohm reading is for a 2004 mazda6 coilpac..
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Old 08-07-2011, 12:18 PM   #9 (permalink)
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.54-.56 Ohms(primary coil winding) when checking between the two pins, at 77F. 5-6 kilo ohms for the secondary windings, at 77F. The resistance will increase with coil temp. A fine crack on the top of the oem coil is usually the sign of a failing coil, near the label.
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185.66/ 170@126k mi (Nov 5, 2011)
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Old 11-27-2011, 03:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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My son's car had the coil issue and unfortunately still does. I ended up having to put the car in the shop and have a coil changed, only to need to have a second one changed. The car drove fine for a very short period of time. I'm sure it's another coil and don't really know if the first two that were changed are working or not. He's in Orlando and I'm in NC. I'm handy enough to deal with the issue, but he's not. Given the circumstance, my opinion is we need to put it into a Mazda dealership and have all the coils and all the plugs changed. At least he would have the warranty on the repair. Is this overkill? Does anybody know what this is likely to cost me?

Last edited by UCF Knight; 11-27-2011 at 03:08 PM.
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