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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-18-2007, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Does anyone know how to check an ignition coil? I got a blinking CEL a few weeks back and took the car into the dealer. They told me it was a #2 cylinder misfire and they told me the coil was bad. So they replaced all the coils and spark plugs per their recommendation. I told them I wanted all the parts back. I noticed one plug had the tip all carboned up (black) and the tip almost burnt off. They gave me all the coils back, but didnt label which one was the bad. I just used my multimeter and checked continuity between the two pins for each coil. Every one of them had continuity. Is there another way to check them or did I just get jerked? BTW, I've got an '03 6s w/103K miles.

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-18-2007, 04:59 PM
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Does anyone know how to check an ignition coil? I got a blinking CEL a few weeks back and took the car into the dealer. They told me it was a #2 cylinder misfire and they told me the coil was bad. So they replaced all the coils and spark plugs per their recommendation. I told them I wanted all the parts back. I noticed one plug had the tip all carboned up (black) and the tip almost burnt off. They gave me all the coils back, but didnt label which one was the bad. I just used my multimeter and checked continuity between the two pins for each coil. Every one of them had continuity. Is there another way to check them or did I just get jerked? BTW, I've got an '03 6s w/103K miles.[/b]
Where they replaced under warranty? They might have just replaced the front 3 an easy way to check it take off your intake manifold. Its not hard but if you are apprehensive check if anyone in your area has done it and see if they can help you.

***You will know if they didn't replace the ones under the intake manifold if the brittle black electrical tape isn't broke off and there is no splicing done.***

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-18-2007, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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No it was not replaced under warranty. I was just 3K out of my extended warranty. Got boned for $800. Oh well, good thing I had it while it lasted. Went thru all engine mounts, throttle body, frozen front brake caliper and front sway bar endlinks. It was #2 which they said was part of the back 3. I was gonna do it, but too damn cold outside.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-18-2007, 07:46 PM
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No it was not replaced under warranty. I was just 3K out of my extended warranty. Got boned for $800. Oh well, good thing I had it while it lasted. Went thru all engine mounts, throttle body, frozen front brake caliper and front sway bar endlinks. It was #2 which they said was part of the back 3. I was gonna do it, but too damn cold outside.[/b]

If you have 45 min and you have garage at your house I would check. $800! Holy cow.... Check soon as possible, if you can you could even just loosen the 8 manifold bolts and disconnect the intake tube and check the 1st back one on the passenger side. You could use a flashlight to see, if they replaced that one as they would have had to take off the whole intake manifold.....so if you can get to that one and it has been replaced it should be alright.


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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-18-2007, 08:12 PM
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If only one was bad, why would you replace them all? And 800? good lord thats high. Unless the parts are very expensive.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-18-2007, 11:21 PM
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The only way to really Test it and condem it is by doing a Coil stress test, which can only be done by a OE scanner.

There's to many winding inside a coil to not have continuity.


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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-19-2007, 07:48 PM
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When I was testing the Mustang coils, I attempted to check spark on the coils, I couldn't find a way to test them. Pull a coil off and stick a spark plug in it or spark tester and the car won't do anything ignition wise.

There has to be a way to check Ohm resistance with a multimeter though.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-19-2007, 11:22 PM
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yep ohm them out best thing to do one will have resistance completly different than the rest. otherwise only way i know to test is on the car with a coil on plug tester.

2003 6S 5 speed. 116000 miles. fidanza flywheel. specd stg 2 clutch . air box mod. rb springs and tok's for shocks. msds headers full exhaust with magnaflow resonator and dynomax super turbo's rb sway bars. ebay front strut brace 17x7.5 with 235 45 17 azenis and oh ya there is a lil headwork 235 whp 219 wtq (avg of 3 dynojet dynos) rpm rear and side smokes markers 8k 35w hids in lows and fogs. try as you might but you just cant keep up.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-20-2007, 01:35 AM Thread Starter
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Yup, I ohmed out every single coil with my multimeter and they were all about the same resistance. I replaced them all because I have heard they were known to go bad and I don't want to be down again. Labor is pretty expensive here in NY and each coil was about $62 plus the stupid CEL diagnostic fee. Does anyone have a factory service manual to see if there is a procedure to check it?

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-20-2007, 07:58 AM
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there is one but to be honest it never works. half the time the diagnostic will say its a ok when its not.

2003 6S 5 speed. 116000 miles. fidanza flywheel. specd stg 2 clutch . air box mod. rb springs and tok's for shocks. msds headers full exhaust with magnaflow resonator and dynomax super turbo's rb sway bars. ebay front strut brace 17x7.5 with 235 45 17 azenis and oh ya there is a lil headwork 235 whp 219 wtq (avg of 3 dynojet dynos) rpm rear and side smokes markers 8k 35w hids in lows and fogs. try as you might but you just cant keep up.
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