Purge Solenoid Replacement - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-30-2007, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
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I have a 2005 Mazda6S with 91k miles. The car is stock with no mods.

Recently, after fueling the car, it will start turn over and then stall out. I will turn the key again however and push on the accelerator and the car then starts. This problem only occurs immediately after fueling. When idling, it tends to rumble a little occasionally, but not every time. Recently the CEL came on. I had the codes scanned and this is what came up:

EVAP Emission Control System Leak (Large)

System too lean at idle speed (Bank 1)

Most of what I read online seems to indicate that the evap purge solenoid needs to be replaced. Please let me know if you think this is the problem. If so, where exactly is this valve located? Any photos or instructions would be helpful. Also, is it possible to clean the valve instead of replacing it?


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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-30-2007, 08:49 PM
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The EVAP system captures fuel vapor and stores it until it reaches a certain pressure, then vents it. For most all vehicles, it is located in very close proximity to the gas tank, for obvious reasons. I have seen these containers fill up with gasoline resulting from those repeat offenders of, "adding in that extra little bit" when fueling. You know when the nozzle stops you, you should pull it out and hang it back up, but alot of people squeeze it for that extra 1/4 to 1/2 of gallon of fuel. This causes the fuel at the very top of the tank to be sucked into the EVAP canister.

Possible causes for the EVAP code:

1) Purge valve has defaulted to it's open position and requires replacement.
2) Canister has ruptured.
3) Gas cap left off.
4) Diaphram in the gas cap has failed.

If the hot link works.. # 1 is the solenoid, #5 is the vapor canister. Prices don't look too bad, looks like the solenoid lists for around $80 and the canister for around $70. Much cheaper than the last one I replaced, a Toyota Camry with a part cost of $450.

Your other code seems unrelated to the first. As I tell my employees, break it down with logic and you will find what you need to check. If it says it is too lean then it is getting either too much air (ie vacuum leak post MAF sensor) or not enough fuel (Clogged injector(s)). The fuel rail does have a dampner on it, it is on the driver's side, and sort of resembles a fuel pressure regulator, but for us, ours is in the tank with the fuel pump. A fuel dampner uses a diaphram to smooth out fuel flow. Just like if you turn on and off a faucet really quickly, you can hear water banging the pipes if it does not have a dampner installed. The fuel version does the same, when you accelerate hard and suddenly don't, the fuel doesn't bang around in the rails and lines which would cause fuel starvation. A failed dampner can cause a lean condition as it usually consists of nothing more than an adjustment screw and a diaphram.

I would recommend putting a long, plastic-handled screw driver to the body of the bank 1 injectors and listen to them. They should have a healthy tick to them, this is them pulsing as fuel passes through them. If you don't hear a clear tick or if the tick is not on pace, then you have a clogged or failing injector. Try some Seafoam treatment first before paying for a new injector.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-23-2015, 02:24 PM
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Purge control is wayy back on left firewall way up high (almost hidden up under/behind strut tower).
You can pull purge valve assembly out a bit still in it's rubber bracket holding it to get a vac lines and/or connector, slide rubber bracket off the metal bracket bolted to firewall (slides off to the right) tight fit for hands. Remove vac line on right side. Start car, have someone rev up and down from idle to 2000 rpm and test with finger tip (skin, not gloved) and see if you can feel vacuum pull on finger tip as they accelerate and then lessen as they drop to idle. If you feel vacuum go up and down, the solenoid is working. If vacuum is always sucking even at idle, then your solenoid may be stuck open. You can also pull elec connector and test for 12v getting to harness when key switched to on position (not started) to see if volts are getting to solenoid.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 10:00 AM
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Having the same issue regarding the purge valve

I also, have a question about the purge valve, we got the same code P0455
EVAP Emission Control System Leak (Large). We have a 2004 Mazda 5, we had the purge valve replaced on Friday. Car was fine all weekend until this morning when the engine light came back on. Mechanic cleaned out the throttle the week before, fixed the stop and stall and then the week after replaced the purge valve. Taking it back to the mechanic because we still don't know why engine light came back on and don't want to drive it out for an hour or more not knowing what could happen. Any suggestions on our next step, suggestions on what to be repaired or for me to tell the mechanic.

Thank you
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