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question about aftermarket motor mounts

6K views 7 replies 7 participants last post by  mrau92me 
#1 ·
I have a 2007 that has just passed 150,000 miles. The passenger side engine mount is on its way out and the dogbone seems to have a bit of play as well, so I went to replace all 3 mounts before they inevitably fail. Does anyone know of a set that's a little more reasonably priced than the AWRs ($400) but not as flimsy as the cheap ones local auto part store/amazon/rockauto sells?

the AWR mounts seems to have excellent reviews but spending $400 will make my wallet cry (though I suppose you get what you pay for). I dont necessarily want to cheap out because I dont plan on getting rid of the car anytime soon.
 
#3 ·
A WORD TO THE WISE: if you have an automatic transmission, stay away from the AWR upper mounts! I just finished removing brand new AWR upper mounts, the vibration was just intolerable. I installed new OEM style mounts, and all is well again. The OEM lower mount, on the other hand, is a TOTAL P.O.S., don't even bother. I had a replacement OEM dogbone fail on me within 20,000 miles. (I guess my lead foot had a lot to do with that). I'm really surprised you got 150,000 miles out of yours.

I agree with GerryB: get the AWR dogbone, and stick with new OEM style uppers.

A word of advice on replacing the transmission mount (driver side upper). DON'T remove the bracket from the trans, ONLY the one on the wheel well (frame) of the car. You'll have to remove the driver side wheel and remove the liner between the suspension and the trans, and come in from the wheel well to get at the lower, rear-most bolt - a 15mm. I used a flex-head ratcheting box wrench, it helped a LOT. Not fun, but WAY easier than removing the bracket on the trans. I did that the first time and it was a ROYAL PITA.

You'll have to jack the engine up, and then apply leverage to push it forward to align the bolt holes. I used a 2x4 between the trans and upper A-arm. Again not fun but not too bad. Have fun!
 
#6 ·
Its funny I got the 88 Duro on my car (all three mounts) and love the vibration, i also have the BSD delete which added some vibration too.

I thought about getting a lower duro when i go and sell the car but we shall see.
 
#7 · (Edited)
What's the best way to tell if the mounts are bad? We just bought an '07 6i with AT with 138k miles, and we're the 3rd owner...2nd owner only put about 12k on it and their maintenance records didn't show ever putting any mounts on it. The car has vibration when in Drive and idling, but the car doesn't clunk when put in gear or anything. Did the test where you put your foot on brake & shift into D (or R) and give a bit of throttle, and the engine doesn't seem to move excessively. I do know that the passenger side's outer CV axle boot is torn pretty bad (is that a known symptom of bad mounts on these cars?). Also, I haven't looked at any spark plugs yet, so could worn spark plugs cause the vibe at idle in D? It runs good, no misfires while driving.

If our car needs them, I'm thinking about buying the two Beck/Arnley mounts (uppers) on Rockauto. I've read in other forums that Beck/Arnley parts are often genuine OEM that are repackaged as B/A. As far as a B/A dogbone (torque strut), Rockauto does NOT list one. A B/A dogbone listing DOES however appear on Amazon, but a couple reviews say it was too wide to fit on their 6 (I wonder if their car was a MT and the B/A dogbone was for an AT, or vice versa)

Also, where can one buy the AWR dogbone?
 
#8 · (Edited)
Oh, WOW. I just realized, or think that I just realized that my hatchback requires a different upper mount for the right side...not the same as a sedan? ...didn't see that coming. Rockauto's listings for this motor mount are kind of confusing :( Can any hatch owners confirm whether any of the hatch's mounts are different. Rockauto's Beck/Arnley & DEA listings say Front Right; Sedan; Automatic trans., but the others just say Front Right. Thanks.
 
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