04 6i has Loud valve train noise at 2800 RPMS and timing issues - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum

GringoEJS · 12-14-2012, 05:43 PM

So my Mazda6 spun a bearing. I replaced the block and assembled everything. The car ran great for 6 miles until I took the RPMs up to 3k+ and then the check engine light came on and the car died. CEL was for timing being too advanced. I tow it home and pop off the valve cover. Somehow the timing was a little off on the intake cam. I set it right, the car idles perfectly and runs...but everytime I rev it to 2800+ rpms, there is a loud buzzing in the top of the motor. I replaced the OCV and it made no difference. Also, I did get a retarded timing code. I am too scared to drive it down the road since I don't trust it now. It is hard to imagine the intake cam going bad for no reason...Any ideas?? I hope this sounds familiar to someone, because I hate to just throw parts at it.
I might be able to get a video of the noise later

Final Impact · 12-15-2012, 06:28 PM

You might want to do a static check on the OCV. It controls the advance/retard and can be removed and checked with a 12v battery. You can verify it opens fully and closes fully. If it was reused from sludge motor, it could be sticking. don't let your search vary but enter this; mazdaserviceinfo 1866-1U-05H its the OEM FSM for the L3 2.3. It'll walk you through how to set and adjust the cam timing and check the OCV.

Details please; was the whole engine replaced or did you place your head on a used block? What components were transfered from old to new?

GringoEJS · 01-14-2013, 04:03 AM

I finally took a video of it, although looking back at the video, it doesn't show the obvious difference in sound at around 2800-3000 RPMs. I put a used block in the car, and swapped everything over from the top. I have done this swap 4 or 5 times now without a hitch until this. The OCV was actually swapped for a brand new one, but it didn't make a difference.

MVI 01381 - YouTube

Final Impact · 01-14-2013, 11:15 AM

The way it starts its as if the intake is over advanced OR WAY retarded. So if you swapped heads you had to time the Camshafts using the Alignment Timing Tool 303-465. Did you install NEW friction washers and how did you actually set the cam timing?

By the book, a dial indicator for TDC on #1 , and then tool Camshaft Alignment Timing Tool 303-465. Although there are ways around that tool, its just the easy thing to do by dropping it on. Take a look at this thread and and the pdf link inside.

TSB 2006 2.0 2.3 Crank Shaft bolt and timing pdf link

12-14-2012, 05:43 PM	#1 (permalink)
GringoEJS Learners License Join Date: Jan 2010 Posts: 5 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s) Quoted: 0 Post(s) iTrader: 0 reviews	04 6i has Loud valve train noise at 2800 RPMS and timing issues with Video So my Mazda6 spun a bearing. I replaced the block and assembled everything. The car ran great for 6 miles until I took the RPMs up to 3k+ and then the check engine light came on and the car died. CEL was for timing being too advanced. I tow it home and pop off the valve cover. Somehow the timing was a little off on the intake cam. I set it right, the car idles perfectly and runs...but everytime I rev it to 2800+ rpms, there is a loud buzzing in the top of the motor. I replaced the OCV and it made no difference. Also, I did get a retarded timing code. I am too scared to drive it down the road since I don't trust it now. It is hard to imagine the intake cam going bad for no reason...Any ideas?? I hope this sounds familiar to someone, because I hate to just throw parts at it. I might be able to get a video of the noise later Last edited by GringoEJS; 01-14-2013 at 04:04 AM. Reason: Added video

12-15-2012, 06:28 PM	#2 (permalink)
Final Impact Registered User Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: USA, OR Posts: 1,231 Thanks: 417 Thanked 331 Times in 239 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts Mentioned: 23 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s) Quoted: 194 Post(s) iTrader: 0 reviews	You might want to do a static check on the OCV. It controls the advance/retard and can be removed and checked with a 12v battery. You can verify it opens fully and closes fully. If it was reused from sludge motor, it could be sticking. don't let your search vary but enter this; mazdaserviceinfo 1866-1U-05H its the OEM FSM for the L3 2.3. It'll walk you through how to set and adjust the cam timing and check the OCV. Details please; was the whole engine replaced or did you place your head on a used block? What components were transfered from old to new? __________________ 2006 Mazda 6s GS Hatchback, Lapis Blue \| AJ 3.0 & AW6A-EL 6 Spd >79,000 If this post helped you, "thanks" never hurts.. .. ..

01-14-2013, 11:15 AM	#4 (permalink)
Final Impact Registered User Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: USA, OR Posts: 1,231 Thanks: 417 Thanked 331 Times in 239 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts Mentioned: 23 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s) Quoted: 194 Post(s) iTrader: 0 reviews	The way it starts its as if the intake is over advanced OR WAY retarded. So if you swapped heads you had to time the Camshafts using the Alignment Timing Tool 303-465. Did you install NEW friction washers and how did you actually set the cam timing? By the book, a dial indicator for TDC on #1 , and then tool Camshaft Alignment Timing Tool 303-465. Although there are ways around that tool, its just the easy thing to do by dropping it on. Take a look at this thread and and the pdf link inside. TSB 2006 2.0 2.3 Crank Shaft bolt and timing pdf link __________________ 2006 Mazda 6s GS Hatchback, Lapis Blue \| AJ 3.0 & AW6A-EL 6 Spd >79,000 If this post helped you, "thanks" never hurts.. .. ..

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