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Old 09-18-2009, 03:45 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I recently installed an AEM CAI on my '05 mazda 6. I forgot to d/c the battery during installation so I took it off the terminal for about 3-4 to let the computer reset and do what its gotta do. At first when idling my rpms would fluctuate roughly between 500-800 and frequently stall, needless to say the CEL came on. Ive been driving it about a week since and a couple hundred miles. I don't stall anymore when idling but my rpm's still fluctuate although not as badly and as frequent; the CEL is still on. I have inspection in a couple months and I would like to get some suggestions on what to do. thanks.
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Old 09-19-2009, 09:35 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Could be a few things. You should always disconnect the battery, so there is the possibility that the MAF sensor short circuited depending on how it was removed. Also, could be that the VAC hose is loose on either end causing the uneasy idle.

You may also want to try the Advanced Timing Mod. This may resolve rough idle as it seems to do with many.

On a side note: someone correct me if i'm wrong but isn't the AEM CAI the one that has the MAF sensor down near the wheel well? If it is then from my experience, it is simply because of the way the CAI is designed. Input on this please.
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Old 09-19-2009, 10:58 AM   #3 (permalink)
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QUOTE (ttshark @ Sep 19 2009, 09:35 AM)
Quote:
Could be a few things. You should always disconnect the battery, so there is the possibility that the MAF sensor short circuited depending on how it was removed. Also, could be that the VAC hose is loose on either end causing the uneasy idle.

You may also want to try the Advanced Timing Mod. This may resolve rough idle as it seems to do with many.

On a side note: someone correct me if i'm wrong but isn't the AEM CAI the one that has the MAF sensor down near the wheel well? If it is then from my experience, it is simply because of the way the CAI is designed. Input on this please.[/b]

Yes the AEM cai has the MAF right above the filter by the wheel well
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Old 09-19-2009, 12:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
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i would do this:

-go remove the battery terminal
-re-check the install to ensure there are no loose/open vacuum lines, as that's the biggest issue typically
-connect the battery and stay away from cruising speeds if possible. go flog the car for a few 10-15min stints then park it, go do it a gain a bit later.

the CEL is from being lean at low loads, nothing else, so the issue tends to pop up when cruising down the street and letting off the gas. if you put it into neutral and coast you won't have the same issue either. so i just suggest trying to stay out of that situation for a few days if at all possible while the ecu relearns things. if the CEL comes on, 99% of the time it won't go off on it's own...so no point in waiting.


...on a side note, when was the last time you had the car at the dealer and the ecu flashed? typically the newer flashed eliminated the issue we all used to have with this when the intakes first came out. again, could just be a loose hose or something, but throwing out all possibilities.
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Old 09-20-2009, 08:17 PM   #5 (permalink)
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QUOTE (MrTea @ Sep 19 2009, 12:35 PM)
Quote:
i would do this:

-go remove the battery terminal
-re-check the install to ensure there are no loose/open vacuum lines, as that's the biggest issue typically
-connect the battery and stay away from cruising speeds if possible. go flog the car for a few 10-15min stints then park it, go do it a gain a bit later.

the CEL is from being lean at low loads, nothing else, so the issue tends to pop up when cruising down the street and letting off the gas. if you put it into neutral and coast you won't have the same issue either. so i just suggest trying to stay out of that situation for a few days if at all possible while the ecu relearns things. if the CEL comes on, 99% of the time it won't go off on it's own...so no point in waiting.


...on a side note, when was the last time you had the car at the dealer and the ecu flashed? typically the newer flashed eliminated the issue we all used to have with this when the intakes first came out. again, could just be a loose hose or something, but throwing out all possibilities.[/b]
I've never had the ecu flashed just bought the car a few months ago. If the MAF got screwed how can i confirm thats the problem?
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Old 09-21-2009, 12:06 AM   #6 (permalink)
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What is the newest ECU flash? Mine was done like 2 years ago.
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Old 09-28-2009, 07:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
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QUOTE (nickd @ Sep 18 2009, 12:45 PM)
Quote:
I recently installed an AEM CAI on my '05 mazda 6. I forgot to d/c the battery during installation so I took it off the terminal for about 3-4 to let the computer reset and do what its gotta do. At first when idling my rpms would fluctuate roughly between 500-800 and frequently stall, needless to say the CEL came on. Ive been driving it about a week since and a couple hundred miles. I don't stall anymore when idling but my rpm's still fluctuate although not as badly and as frequent; the CEL is still on. I have inspection in a couple months and I would like to get some suggestions on what to do. thanks.[/b]
I have the exact same problem on my car. I checked the CEL and got P2187 which means its running lean on idle. I cleared the CEL, it still comes back on some times though. If yopu have to pass an emissions test, just remove the intake and put your stock one back.
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Old 09-28-2009, 08:06 PM   #8 (permalink)
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there was a flash in '05 i believe that helped the early guys get over the intake CEL issues, and the '05+ cars don't have issues with them. i think last time i was flashed was like nov '04 or feb '05, can't remember. i've had like 5 pending codes for the last 3 years though, just painted over the CEL in the dash so i don't see it.

easiest way to check the MAF for sure is to meet up with a guy and swap them, see if the issues follows the MAF or the car.
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'03 Lapis(mostly) 6i...Tranny swap by Gillis Motorsports : MTX-75 5speed tranny, 4.06 gears, Torsen LSD & chromoly axles, Engine build by Gillis Motorsports: 9:1 Supertech Pistons, Crower rods, Supertech valves, springs & retainers, ARP head & main studs, F2 Stage2 Turbo, Custom F2 engine/tranny mounts, 3" Turboback exhaust, Tein Basic Coilovers, Brembo Big Brake Kit and Rotora Rear Rotors, RacingBeat Front & Rear Sways, Seibon OEM hood, VF Engineering rear engine mount, Powdercoated Valvecover, TEIN hood dampers, Some sort of Body Kit from some company usually last dyno 8/23, 10psi...260HP/267TQ

Still need: Seat, cage, Gillis suspension...then i'm DONE!!

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