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Old 01-12-2013, 12:23 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Unhappy Another one with a DPF issue!

I did some googling and found you lot, who seem to have similar problems to me! Not sure if that's a good thing or not

Car: 56' reg Mazda 6 2.0d Sakata

Story: I did a 180 mile trip today, and after about 150 miles, the car felt really sluggish. Hills on the motorway were ridiculous - foot to the floor, even dropped down to 4th at 70mph and it was struggling. After 160 miles or so, the DPF light suddenly started flashing (it wasn't on solid before this, just flashing). I did remember reading the manual so I slowed down and kept it around the 3krpm mark but it made no difference. At about 165 miles, the engine management light came on, and I thought "oh crap, its actually broken". It's a saturday afternoon, no garages are open (there are very few near me anyway!) so I limped it to KFC not far from home. Let it sit while I browsed the manual and ate some chicken, then pinched some napkins so I could check the oil level - it wasn't much below the X mark on the dipstick. I drove it the remaining 3-4 miles home and parked it up. It's dark now, so I can't look at anything until tomorrow, but it seems the symptons I've had are in a different order to most :s

Tomorrow, I plan on following the guide on Tips and Tricks for MAZDA 6 (GH) 2.0D MZR-CD (RF-Turbo) 2007 - 09. - www.cdn.dk as follows:
1. Change oil and oil filter.
2. Warm up the car, take it for a drive.
3. Clean the DPF. takes about half an hour.
4. Reset for oil change.
5. Reset the DPF.
6. Calibrate the injectors.
7. Finish.

If that doesn't work, it looks like I'll be either hunting for a replacement DPF+cat, or finding somewhere who can remove it for me and remap the ECU at the same time (not gonna be easy around here!).

Anyone got anything else they could throw in? I'm new to diesels, but not new to cars/engines - I carry out my own oil/filter/coolant changes regularly, I've just broken up my old Mazda 323F (including removing the engine, and I didn't even use a hammer) so I'm not alien to everything, but diesels are new to me!

Oh, the best thing? I've owned this car for 20 days now This is a good start!
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:18 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Well, halfords and wilco seem to be the only places open on a sunday, and neither of them sell C1 spec oil. The only place I can find it is GSF but theyre closed!

Its looking like Ill have to get some el cheapo generic oil, just for the time being, and then Ill order some fancypants oil.

In other news, a new DPF can be had for 260 on ebay, or a garage not too far away will do it for 275 plus labour, with a years guarantee. While I could fit it myself, I think I want the guarantee so I reckon I'll ring them on monday.

Need to see if I can work from home on monday now
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Old 01-13-2013, 05:54 AM   #3 (permalink)
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What exactly is a DPF?

Did you get any check engine codes?

Please only make one thread next time, thank you.


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Old 01-13-2013, 08:27 AM   #4 (permalink)
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DPF = diesel particulate filter
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:58 AM   #5 (permalink)
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When was the oil last changed as the DPF light also acts as a service indicator, once past 12500mls the DPF light will come on and the car will go into limp mode, if it's close to the X mark i would change the oil anyway and make sure the oil dilution and service indicator are reset.

Dave
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:07 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The guide and steps in your original post are spot on and that would be my course of action but with some extra steps since you have error lights and probably DTCs stored.

Flashing DPF and illuminated MIL indicate that your DPF is between 140% and 200% full (see below) and needs manual regen or replacement

https://euroesi.mazda.co.jp/esicont/...6f1805100.html

You will need to run manual regen as per link you posted in your first post and you might have to do it a few times.
You will also need basic diagnostic tool to reset error codes. Search ebay for ELM327 device (around 10, make sure you buy version 1.5)

So to sum up (this is what cured my DPF issue)


1. Change oil and oil filter. ( Make sure you use the right oil)
2. Warm up the car, take it for a drive.
3. Clean the DPF as per Mazda tips link). One cycle takes about half an hour. (do a few consecutive cycles until you see very little white smoke during regen)
4. Reset for oil change. (as per Mazda tips link)
5. Reset the DPF (as per Mazda tips link). It might take up to 90 min for DPF light to turn from flashing to solid after manual regen.
6. Clear DTCs using basic diagnostics. No DTCs should come up after rescan.
7. If your DPF light is solid, take for 10-20min motorway drive over 2000RPM non stop.
6. Calibrate the injectors (as per Mazda tips link).
7. Finish.

If DPF manual regen process does not start, or starts and stops after 1 minute, you will need to have Mazda VCM with IDS software to reset PCM data.

If you are thinking of replacing DPF, either yourself or through independent garage, ensure that you (or the garage) can get hold of diagnostics tools that can do Mazda specific functions.
When DPF is replaced, you will need to reset PCM data and sensor values so that new DPF can be picked up by ECU ( see below)

https://euroesi.mazda.co.jp/esicont/...5f1800200.html

Other useful links
https://euroesi.mazda.co.jp/esicont/...2f1801500.html

https://euroesi.mazda.co.jp/esicont/...3f1805100.html
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Old 01-15-2013, 06:20 AM   #7 (permalink)
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From the official service sheet, the only thing that needs reset when you change oil and filter, is the oil data. I'm really not sure you're gaining anything by resetting the DPF (unless you replace it) and Injectors (unless you replace one), I certainly haven't seen it on any official documentation from Mazda.

Has anybody got a link to the official sheet for replacing the DPF?

I'd like to do the oil strainer thing slidey mentions, so maybe this year I'll do a bigger service...
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:43 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I had a garage local to me take a look - I'm told the MAF sensor and DPF are throwing error codes. He had a look at the DPF and it's "shagged" to use his term. He also managed to crack off 2 of the 4 temperature sensors, but the other 2 are well and truly stuck in.

I'm paying them to sort it - they give a 2 year warranty, and they're replacing the MAF sensor, replacing the 2 stuck EGT sensors, replacing the DPF with a stainless pipe from longlife, and remapping it for better economy (rather than more power). Costing 1600 in total but at least I know it's done, and it's under "warranty" for the next 2 years.

ctmazda - I only made this one thread, plus one in the "newbie" section because the rules told me too, which I (wrongly) read after posting this one
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
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How do they propose to make the car forget about the DPF? What about smoke correction? They must either reprogram the ECU, or use emulators to fool the car into thinking the DPF is constantly clear. Plus, why do you need two new sensors for a unit that's not going to be present anymore?

If I were you...

New DPF from ebay with 2 year warranty 245
Some guy to fit it 40-80
MAF Cleaner 12 or new MAF 40+
Change oil and filter (Carlube C1 spec) 50 for 6 litres

Less than 500 for the whole lot...

Added benefit, no resale worries, no future MOT worries.
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Old 01-16-2013, 06:09 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrflobby View Post

Has anybody got a link to the official sheet for replacing the DPF?

I'd like to do the oil strainer thing slidey mentions, so maybe this year I'll do a bigger service...
https://euroesi.mazda.co.jp/esicont/...5f1800200.html
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