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#1 (permalink) |
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I have had a problem with the engine cutting out when cold although it starts perfectly and does not happen until coming to a stop a short distance down the road.This has now started to happen intermittently when the engine is at normal temperature when coming to a stop.Because the problem involves a cutting out engine nothing registers as a fault when the garage diagnostic equipment is attached and they say that because of this they will not be able to find the problem.Any ideas out there?
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#2 (permalink) |
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I'm not familiar with the diesel version. However, browse here. Maybe they have something similar to your condition listed.
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2006 Black Mazdaspeed6 |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Track Racer
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I'm fairly certain it is not the Mondao engine. Seems to be a Mazda one off. I have a diesel 6, and from pics of the ford it does not look the same.
Chris |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Track Racer
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It's not the same engine. It's essentially the same engine that was designed (apparently from the ground up, ie not just tweaking an existing block...) for the Mazda MPV. One of the benefits of this is the latest common rail system, pressurised to even higher pressures than the previous lot, and currently only shared with the latest Toyota Avensis. I am glad to say that that, and having 4 wheels, is all that links the 2 cars!! Tuning options are however limited since it is a reasonably new engine - then again, in all honesty I doubt those seriously interested in a lot of tuning get a diesel anyway!
Moving onto your problem, I assume it is still under warranty? If so, then it is the dealer's responsibility, at Mazda's expense, to find the problem. Just because they don't see a fault code doesn't mean it doesn't happen, as I'm sure you've muttered a fair few times by now! If I was having this problem I would feel justified in saying that it was an unacceptable fault with the vehicle, with possibly safety consequences. Ie if Mazda end up having to fly a specialist engineer to you, well then that's what it takes! Best of luck. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Track Racer
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Quote:
Try to recall exactly what was happening immediately before the cut out, eg, accelerating, decelerating, clutch in/out, braking or not. If they try to replicate the fault at the dealer you drive it not them. They'll drive it like your grandma for 5 minutes and then tell you it drives just like any other 6. I had probs with my 1st 6, it was like the clutch & accelerator were sometimes connected with rubber bands instead of cable/hydraulics. My dealer almost had me believing I didn't know how to drive. I've only been at it 30 years, been doing it for longer than some of their Techs have been on the planet. Mazda technical are always reluctant to get involved, they won't pay a tech to travel if the dealer can't find anything on OBD. The good news is, it's most likely something simple. The bad news is, it may be difficult to diagnose. Modern cars are so complex that all technicians have to rely on electronic diagnostics and they are absolutely fucked when the computer doesn't reveal any faults. MY THEORY EVERYTHING that is manufactured is made to a tolerance because it would be virtually impossible to make it 100% accurately. These tolerances are perfectly acceptable until the equipment is used in conjunction with other equipment that is also manufactured to a tolerance. One or more components at one extreme of tolerance connected to other components at the other extreme and they don't work together properly. Think of it like this. Get 4 lengths of wood to make a square picture frame, cut your wood to length & mitre the ends then stick them together. I guarantee that your resulting picture frame will look square, but it won't be, because unless you are really, really lucky none of your wood will have been cut to the exact same length. It'll be near enough but not perfect. Exactly the same as your car, unfortunately. So many electronic components, so many tolerances, something is bound to go tits up.
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Track Racer
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#8 (permalink) | |
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#9 (permalink) |
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I had exactly the same problem with my 136bhp diesel. Sometimes it would conk out 3 times in one week, or once a month. Basically it is the high pressure fuel pump (hence nothing shows up on diag) that is faulty. It was replaced about 1 month ago and it is running perfectly, possibly with a touch more grunt.
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#10 (permalink) |
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Hi, guys, I'm new on this forum, being more active on the forums from my country. I was surprised to see that you're in doubt about the origins of our engine (I have a 2.0 136 hp too). It's "imported" from PSA (Peugeot + Citroen), with the in-house customised common rail and with injection bought from Siemens. Currently, it is used by the new Focus and Peugeot 407. I don't know if that's good or bad news, because we have to agree that PSA has some of the best diesel engines on the market anyway.
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